Kathleen Chen, the retail editor at The Business of Fashion, dives into the troubled state of department stores. She discusses how overexpansion and the rise of e-commerce have contributed to their decline. Chen highlights the looming crisis as activist investors target major chains like Macy’s and Kohl’s, often prioritizing real estate over retail health. The conversation also explores innovative strategies from retailers like Nordstrom that might help rejuvenate this iconic sector. Is it too late for department stores to reclaim their former glory?
Department stores are struggling to adapt due to outdated designs and consumer preferences for unique shopping experiences, highlighting their need for significant renovation.
The rise of activist investors prioritizing real estate over retail operations poses a serious threat to the sustainability and innovation of department stores.
Deep dives
The Struggles of Department Stores in Modern Retail
Department stores have significantly declined over the years due to evolving consumer shopping habits and increased competition from online retailers. Traditional giants like Macy's, JCPenney, and Nordstrom are now facing urgent challenges as they fail to adapt to these changes effectively. The common issues include outdated store designs, lack of engaging merchandising, and the inability to meet the demands of today's consumers who prefer unique and personalized shopping experiences. As a result, many of these stores have resorted to closing locations to realign with market demands, illustrating the drastic shifts occurring within the retail landscape.
The Impact of Real Estate and Activist Investors
Department stores hold valuable real estate, which has attracted the attention of activist investors seeking to monetize these assets rather than support the retail operations. Recent trends show that companies like Macy's and Kohl's are struggling against hedge funds focused solely on real estate, threatening the future of operationally viable retail strategies. The experience of Sears serves as a cautionary tale, demonstrating how stripping a company of its retail identity in favor of real estate profits can lead to its demise. As department stores become targets for these investors, their long-term viability and commitment to retail innovation are jeopardized.
Potential Pathways for Recovery and Growth
Despite the current challenges, there remains a belief in the potential of department stores, particularly if they can emulate successful international models. European department stores prioritize customer experience, unique store designs, and local relevance, creating a more appealing shopping environment that attracts consumers. Additionally, there are signs of hope with strategies like Nordstrom's efforts to go private, allowing for long-term investments without the pressure of quarterly earnings. By focusing on improving the in-store experience and effectively utilizing their real estate, department stores might navigate through their existential crisis and reclaim their status within the retail sector.
For decades, department stores were symbols of American retail success, but their shine has long since faded. Overexpansion that began in the 1990s, the growth of e-commerce and the decline of many malls has left a saturated market, with more stores than there is demand. Major department stores have been struggling for decades to adapt to changes in the way their customers shop, with little to show for it.
"These challenges existed ten years ago, but the problem we have today is that it’s getting later and later, and more and more desperate for these department stores. Time is running out, and they still haven’t figured out the solution,” says retail editor Cat Chen.
In this episode of The Debrief, BoF senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young speaks with Chen about why department stores are struggling to stay relevant, how activist investors are complicating the picture, and whether following the approach of European department stores like Selfridges can save this iconic segment of the retail industry.
Key Insights:
Activist investors have been targeting department stores like Macy’s and Kohl’s, but they are more interested in these companies’ real estate portfolios than retail. Chen highlights the parallels with Sears, where the investor Eddie Lampert spun out Sears’ real estate into a separate entity, ultimately leading to its bankruptcy. “The sentiment in the industry is that if these companies were bought out by activist investors it would not be a good sign for the health of these department stores. There wouldn’t be a long-term strategy for maintaining their health,” she says.
Nordstrom's strategy for revival includes focusing on experiential retail, enhancing customer service, and possibly going private under the Nordstrom family’s ownership. These moves would allow them to invest in the long-term health of the company without the pressure of quarterly earnings. “The Nordstrom family is really set on making some radical, transformative changes to Nordstrom that they just can't make as a public entity,” Chen explains.
European department stores are a potential model for American department stores to replicate. “Look at Selfridges or look at Le Bon Marché. People love spending time in those stores — tourists but also locals,” Chen says. Explaining how European stores are treated like flagships, with significant investments in customer experience and meticulous attention to detail, she adds, “these companies invest in the layout of the store — fixtures, carpeting, lighting — all of these details matter, and European department stores have done a great job making it happen.”