Expense Account Momofuku's Paul Carmichael and Marguerite Zabar Mariscal
Dec 15, 2025
Paul Carmichael, the culinary brain behind Momofuku's Kabawa, shares his journey from leading restaurants in Australia to infusing Caribbean flavors in NYC. Marguerite Zabar Mariscal, the Momofuku Group's CEO, discusses the unique challenges of opening in difficult neighborhoods and the essence of their restaurant's identity. They delve into the charm of phone-only reservations and the importance of local patrons, while highlighting memorable dishes and the creative process behind Kabawa's vibrant design.
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Early Momofuku Memories
- Marguerite remembers visiting the original Momofuku in the East Village and later interning at 21.
- She has worked at the group for 14 years and started around when Paul was at Ma Peche.
Why Dim Sum Carts Fail Often
- Paul recounts Ma Peche's dim sum cart experiment and why carts are hard to run.
- He explains the tension between variety, freshness, and waste when using carts.
DNA Plus Local Adaptation
- Marguerite says Momofuku keeps core DNA but adapts everything else to local context.
- She frames Momofuku as making the familiar unfamiliar to expand palates without lecturing.