Chris Sharma: His 5.16 Project, Offering Cash for Hard Sends, and How He Balances Power Vs. Endurance

Aug 27, 2025

In this engaging discussion, elite climber Chris Sharma shares unique insights from his climbing journey. He proposes cash incentives for tackling hard outdoor climbs and reflects on how parenting has enhanced his skills. Sharma reveals details about his ambitious 5.16 project and the personal growth that comes from knowing when to step back. He passionately discusses the beauty of deep water soloing and the thrill of connecting with fellow climbers, including a chance for fans to join him on upcoming retreats in Mallorca.

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INSIGHT

Make Hard Routes Competitive

Chris Sharma sees value in adding competitive incentives (cash or bounties) to encourage repeats of obscure hard routes.
He thinks brand-backed purses could create an “ultimate rock-climbing competition” and attract talent to neglected lines.

INSIGHT

Comp Setting Changed Outdoor Movement

Competition-style bouldering evolved toward slopers, gymnastics and parkour moves that differ from typical sport-climb holds.
Chris thinks outdoor bouldering still holds unexplored parkour-style lines and crossover potential from comps.

ANECDOTE

Comps Rejuvenated By Deep Water Soloing

At an Altitude retreat Chris met competition climbers who were rejuvenated by deep water soloing and free from comp pressure.
He likened the DWS prep and nerves to the mental setup of competing in a comp.

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Elite climber Chris Sharma explores:

A wild idea to offer cash incentives for sending hard outdoor climbs
What happens when comp climbers get psyched on rock
Why being a busy dad has improved certain aspects of his climbing
Details on his super steep next level 5.16 (??) project
Knowing when to walk away from a project
Being motivated by grades can be good sometimes
The art of not giving a f*ck
How he alleviates send pressure
The intensely beautiful and unique experience of DWS
How YOU can climb with him and Magnus Midtbø

BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com
SCARPA: The best climbing shoes, trail runners, and hikers in the game! Score yourself a free SCARPA x STRUGGLE hat when you use code STRUGGLE at checkout at SCARPA.com . SCARPA, No Place Too Far.
Altitude Climbing: Join legends Chris Sharma and Magnus Midtbø for an unforgettable deep water soloing retreat in Mallorca, where all of the logistics (food, lodging, boat guides, etc.) are taken care of for you. Dream trip! Visit altitudeclimbing.com/events to learn more and apply today.

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Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega.

Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Introduction and Welcome 00:45 Guest Introduction: Chris Sharma 01:17 Chris Sharma's Current Projects 01:42 Deep Water Soloing and Retreats 02:27 Host's Personal Update 03:35 Chris Sharma's Climbing History 04:19 Discussion on Climbing Routes and Challenges 08:52 Competitive Climbing vs. Rock Climbing 20:06 Balancing Climbing and Family Life 27:03 Maintaining Climbing Fitness and Strength 31:12 Exploring the Appeal of Bouldering 31:36 The Steep Cave Project 32:15 Inspiration and Progression in Climbing 33:51 Switching Gears and New Challenges 35:34 The Physicality of Santa Ana 37:14 Balancing Fun and Hard Work 39:08 The Role of Inspiration in Climbing 40:29 Fizzy Vantage Nutrition 41:53 Personal Climbing Goals and Reflections 51:03 Climbing as a Profession 54:51 The Joy of Deep Water Soloing 01:02:49 Conclusion and Final Thoughts

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!