Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast #123 - Effective Training - Part 2 - Applying a Systems Approach to Program Design
In this second installment of a two-part series, Coach Eric Hörst takes the high-level systems philosophy introduced in Episode #122 and brings it down to earth with practical, actionable guidance. This episode walks listeners through the nine elements of an intelligent training system and illustrates how each one applies directly to climbing preparation and long-term improvement.
Eric emphasizes that as climbers progress beyond the beginner stage, climbing and training grow increasingly complex—requiring intentional, organized, and year-round development of strength, technique, mental skills, recovery habits, nutrition, and lifestyle management. Rather than ad-lib sessions or singular-focus programs (like only training strength), climbers need a comprehensive system fine-tuned daily and seasonally.
The episode explains how to evaluate your training "inputs," recognize both positive and negative "outputs," manage disturbances, and use ongoing feedback (sensors) to modulate your training wisely. Eric underscores that self-awareness, discipline, and responsiveness—not just effort—drive long-term progress. He makes the case that thoughtful systems dramatically improve performance, reduce injury risk, and provide clarity amidst the complexities of climbing life.
The episode concludes with guidance on setting meaningful long- and short-term goals, adjusting training loads with intention, eliminating counterproductive habits, and being vigilant about the subtle disturbances that erode progress over time. Ultimately, Eric encourages every committed climber to craft a personalized system—one aligned to their goals, life structure, recovery needs, and unique path in the sport.
RUNDOWN
0:15 – Eric's welcome
0:30 - Recap of Part 1 - Episode #122. If you haven't already, please listen to Part 1 now >>
2:20 - 9 elements of a Systems applied to training for climbing.
7:00 – Some climbing-specific examples of employing an intelligent system approach to training. Examples of how each system element relates to daily training activities and mission pursuit.
11:55 - You have two choices...
12:40 – Tips for applying a systems approach to your training and non-training activities
15:00 – Importance of having a mega-goal. What's your BHAG? You also need a series of short-term goals to make your journey more rich and enjoyable…and to help maintain motivation and a sense of progress.
17:50 – Importance of consciously selecting your INPUTs—training, rest, food, things you do to support recovery, etc.
22:30 – SENSOR…your subjective sense of movement quality and fatigue while climbing and training; but also via objective measures...such as tracking of metrics of fitness (grip strength, bodyweight, etc.)
25:05 – The power of DISTURBANCES to covertly sabotage your training and knock you off course from your goals. Strive to anticipate, avoid, or quickly course-correct.
28:00 – Most important: Be proactive and fully engaged in the process of training, climbing, and living. Don't be an NPC!
29:30 – Wrap-up & Eric's 50% Challenge.
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Thank yous: La Sportiva, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs
Music by Misty Murphy
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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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