380: Garrett Oliver and Vinnie Cilurzo are Brewing for Impact With Fonio Grain
Sep 27, 2024
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Garrett Oliver, a brewing legend at Brooklyn Brewery, and Vinnie Cilurzo, renowned for his work with Russian River, explore the innovative use of fonio grain in brewing. They discuss the sustainability and nutritional benefits of fonio, its historical ties to African culture, and its unique flavors that can enhance beer, including a Belgian Blonde. The conversation touches on the challenges of processing fonio and its potential as a revolutionary ingredient in the brewing world, making a case for more sustainable practices in the industry.
Garrett Oliver and Vinnie Cilurzo advocate for using fonio grain to challenge the limitations of our industrialized food system and promote sustainability.
Fonio, a versatile grain, introduces unique flavor profiles like Sauvignon Blanc and lychee to various beer styles while presenting brewing challenges.
Collaboration among breweries aims to enhance fonio's visibility in the craft beer industry, promoting cultural heritage and sustainable agricultural practices.
Deep dives
The Historical and Ecological Significance of Fonio
Fonio is a grain native to Central Africa, particularly the Sahel region, and has been cultivated for over 5,000 years. Unlike many modern grains, Fonio thrives in arid conditions without the need for chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or irrigation, making it an ecologically sustainable choice for agriculture. Colonial practices have historically suppressed the growth of indigenous grains like Fonio, replacing them with input-heavy crops like wheat and corn that are less suitable for local conditions. This grain not only presents an opportunity for sustainable farming practices but also offers a means to reconnect underrepresented cultures in the U.S. with their brewing heritage.
Innovative Brewing with Fonio
Brewers have begun experimenting with Fonio, discovering its potential to contribute unique flavor profiles to various beer styles. Initial trials with Fonio revealed unexpected fruity aromas reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc and lychee, leading to successful beers brewed in collaboration with renowned brewing partners. With careful recipe development, Fonio has been incorporated into several beer styles, including a Belgian Blonde ale and a double pilsner, showcasing its versatility as an adjunct grain. The goal is not just to use Fonio as a novelty, but to genuinely integrate it into mainstream brewing processes and recipes.
Challenges and Opportunities in Brewing with Fonio
While Fonio presents numerous exciting possibilities in brewing, it also poses unique challenges due to its small size and lack of gluten. Brewers have found success when incorporating Fonio at levels around 15-30%, as using too much can lead to lautering issues because of its lightweight nature. However, careful handling and innovative brewing techniques have made it relatively easy to work with, especially in comparison to other alternative grains. The excitement surrounding Fonio also encourages brewers to explore new flavor dimensions and engage with a broader audience interested in diverse beer experiences.
Collaborative Efforts to Promote Fonio
Collaboration between various breweries, including Guinness and Brooklyn Brewery, aims to enhance the visibility and accessibility of Fonio in the craft brewing industry. These partnerships are crucial for establishing supply chains, as Yolele Foods appears to be the primary source for purchasing Fonio in larger quantities. Additionally, the initiative aligns with sustainability goals, as using Fonio could contribute to a reduction in the overall environmental impact of brewing. Efforts are underway to explore the long-term benefits of using Fonio not only for flavor but also for shelf stability, making it an attractive option for brewers.
Cultural and Social Implications of Fonio in Brewing
The return of grains like Fonio to brewing taps into deeper cultural histories, expanding the narrative surrounding beer to include diverse fermenting traditions from around the world. By utilizing Fonio, brewers have an opportunity to create connections with different cultures and highlight the global history of beer beyond its European roots. This project serves as a platform to not only innovate in brewing but also encourage conversations about cultural heritage and sustainability. Overall, the excitement around Fonio allows brewers to engage a diverse audience while exploring sustainable practices that benefit both local farmers and consumers alike.
While Garrett Oliver of Brooklyn Brewery and Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River need little introduction, the grain they’ve grown fond of brewing with—an African millet known as fonio—may be unfamiliar to many brewers. In this episode, these two brewing legends discuss the grain’s background, as well as how and why they’ve used it in a series of new beers produced for the Brewing for Impact project. Along the way, Oliver and Cilurzo touch on:
the limitations of our industrialized food system
the history and nature of fonio
fonio’s farming and climate benefits
using fonio as a brewing component at various percentages
fonio’s unusual amino acid–like bitterness
its impact on free amino nitrogen (FAN) in finished beer and the implications for potential stability and longevity
a basic step-mash regimen for a Belgian pale ale with fonio
the Sauvignon Blanc–like flavors that fonio can produce
nearly clear beer made from 100 percent fonio
And more.
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