Surfing Legend Shane Dorian: Big-Wave Surfing, Near-Death Experiences, and Bowhunting

In this episode of the Born Primitive Podcast, Bear and Tony sit down with legendary big wave surfer Shane Dorian. Shane opens up about his intense surfing career, recounting near-death experiences that shaped his approach to both the ocean and life. He discusses the mental and physical preparation needed to surf some of the world’s biggest waves, while also reflecting on how these dangerous feats have impacted his perspective on risk. Shane also shares his passion for bowhunting, offering insights into how the patience and focus required for hunting parallels his approach to surfing. Throughout the conversation, Shane emphasizes the importance of managing fear, taking calculated risks, and finding balance between his extreme sports and family life.

Follow Shane on Instagram: @shanedorian

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