Trine Krebs, a passionate organic farmer and Green Chef, joins forces with Trine Hahnemann, a celebrated chef and author, alongside Professor Ole Mouritsen, a researcher in gastrophysics. They dive into Denmark's impressive organic food landscape, where organic purchases hit nearly 12%. The guests discuss the importance of taste in promoting plant-based diets, the cultural evolution of Danish cuisine, and the unique challenges facing organic farmers. They also shed light on Denmark's public meal initiatives, aiming for healthier, accessible food options for children.
Denmark's impressive organic food consumption rate has been driven by community initiatives, government support, and a commitment to sustainability since the 1970s.
Innovative policies in Copenhagen schools promote healthy eating habits by ensuring meals are predominantly organic, while also addressing environmental and social equity issues.
Deep dives
Denmark's Organic Food Movement
Denmark has made significant strides in promoting organic food consumption, with nearly 12% of all food purchases being organic in 2023, compared to only 1.5% in the UK. This movement is rooted in the 1970s when a desire for more sustainable farming practices began to take shape, leading to a strong organic movement driven by community efforts and farmer initiatives. The government played a crucial role, particularly through local councils, which supported the establishment of organizations focused on increasing the organic quality of meals served in public institutions. As a result of these concerted efforts, public canteens in Copenhagen now serve predominantly organic meals, reflecting a broader shift in dietary preferences and policies.
Innovative Food Policies in Education
In Copenhagen, innovative policies in educational settings have contributed to healthier eating habits among children. A program mandates that meals provided to schools must contain 90% organic ingredients, significantly enhancing the nutritional quality of school lunches. This includes a focus on minimizing meat usage and emphasizing plant-based foods, which not only improves health outcomes but also addresses environmental concerns. The initiative also aims to ensure equitable access by subsidizing meals for low-income families, reinforcing the social value of providing nourishing food for all students.
The Role of Taste in Dietary Changes
A crucial aspect of encouraging plant-based diets lies in enhancing the taste and appeal of vegetables, addressing the challenges of bitterness often associated with them. Research on umami flavors shows that by cleverly incorporating ingredients rich in umami, the perception of bitterness in vegetables can be diminished, making them more palatable. This scientific approach leads to the development of recipes and cooking techniques that not only make vegetables more enjoyable but also promote their consumption among broader audiences, including children. By transforming vegetable dishes into satisfying meals, there's potential for a significant shift in dietary patterns toward more sustainable eating.
Challenges Facing Organic Production
Despite Denmark's advancements in organic food, the country faces challenges related to its agricultural practices and market dynamics. A substantial portion of organic ingredients is still imported, which raises questions about self-sufficiency and the environmental impact of food miles. Furthermore, current policies focusing heavily on plant-based diets may overshadow the importance of maintaining biodiversity and supporting local organic farming. As the organic sector navigates these complexities, there is a burgeoning discussion about defining and implementing regenerative farming to complement established organic practices.
In this second episode from Copenhagen, Sheila Dillon explores why Denmark leads the way in organic food consumption.
In 2023, nearly 12% of all food bought in Denmark was organic—one of the highest levels in the world. In the UK, that figure is just 1.5%.
But how did Denmark get here? And can the organic movement keep growing as the conversation shifts toward climate concerns and plant-based eating?
Sheila meets the people shaping Denmark’s food future, from organic farmers to chefs and researchers. She also asks how does this apparent national embrace of organic food sit alongside Denmark’s industrial farming, including its vast pork industry?
Featuring conversations with:
• Trine Hahnemann – Chef, writer, and campaigner
• Trine Krebs – Organic farmer and Green Chef at The Food Organisation of Denmark
• Prof. Ole Mouritsen – Gastrophysicist researching how to encourage more plant-based eating
• Søren Buhl Steiniche – Head chef at EAT, a public kitchen serving Copenhagen’s schools
• Heidi Svømmekjær – Copenhagen-based food writer and home cook
Presented by Sheila Dillon
Produced for BBC Audio in Bristol by Natalie Donovan
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