Adam Ondra: New Mega Projects, Comp Retirement, Kneepad Hot Takes, and is Terranova V17?

Jan 8, 2025

Adam Ondra, one of the greatest rock climbers, dives into his climbing journey, highlighting his latest projects like DNA (5.15d) and the legendary challenges faced in Gorges du Verdon. He discusses the influence of knee pads on climbing performance and grades, shares thoughts on competition retirement, and reveals insights about his new Ondra Comp shoe and the term 'smedging.' The conversation also tackles the complexity of bouldering routes, questioning if Terranova is tougher than V16 and the potential of climbers like Will Bosi.

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ANECDOTE

Climbing in Verdon Gorge

Adam Ondra is climbing in the Verdon Gorge with Jakob Schubert and others, attempting potentially the hardest route there.
The route is steep and stays dry in the rain but humidity is still a factor.

INSIGHT

Benefits of Collaboration

Working with Jakob Schubert on DNA has benefited Ondra by providing insights into beta and body positioning.
Ondra emphasizes the importance of collaboration and fine-tuning methods.

INSIGHT

Competitiveness and Collaboration

Elite climbers balance ambition with collaboration, using competition as motivation.
Ondra views fellow competitors as friends and rivals, understanding that someone may perform better at times.

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In this episode, elite climber Adam Ondra explores:

His process with Jakob and friends on DNA (5.15d / 9c)
Being motivated by friendly competition
The recent sends of Change and Move by Alex Megos and others
Kneepads and their impact on modern climbing and grades of old classics
Silence vs B.I.G. and which is the king line
Is he retiring from comp climbing?
The new Ondra Comp shoe, and what is "smedging"
Is Terranova harder than V16... and can Will Bosi send it?

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