The Nugget Climbing Podcast Follow-Up: Matt Heyliger — Pulley Injury Rehab (Part 1)
Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week.
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*The full version is 1:17:15.
*Watch the uncut video interview here!
Martin's Original Episode:
Work With Matt:
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Banter with Matt
(00:03:47) – Overview of my finger injury
(00:06:42) – What I should have done
(00:17:44) – Remodeling & density hangs
(00:23:12) – The injury timeline
(00:25:00) – When to push it & thoughts on taping
(00:27:40) – Recap of our first PT session (not recorded)
(00:29:49) – Maintaining strength & avoiding barbells
(00:33:56) – 4x loading per day (6 reps of 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off)
(00:37:37) – BFR
(00:40:02) – Finger pain threshold testing
(00:46:27) – How I felt after finger testing
(00:47:40) – Planning out my climbing
(00:53:00) – Palpation & massage
(00:57:04) – Acupressure rings
(00:58:30) – The next phase of loading
(01:05:52) – Too many moves in a session
(01:07:34) – How to climb around a minor pulley injury
(01:09:41) – Tetris
(01:11:00) – Testing with tape
(01:12:11) – Plans for the coming week