#136 Tim, My Dude — Bouldering Has Leveled Up, The Next Gen Is Better, 15d Is Harder Than V17, and The Best Highball In The World
Jan 20, 2025
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Tim Kang is a professional climber and highballer known for his World Cup competitions and the film "Focus." In this conversation, he highlights the astounding progress of younger climbers who tackle V17 as a norm. Tim and the host debate the nuances of climbing grades, questioning whether 15d is truly harder than V17. He also shares his thoughts on the best highball in the world and touches on his upcoming highball project. Expect hot takes and a lively discussion about the dynamic evolution of bouldering!
Recent bouldering performances have significantly advanced, with younger climbers achieving what was once considered elite, now just the norm.
The evolution of climbing education emphasizes the importance of humility, where younger climbers actively seek advice from their experienced peers.
Highball climbing is explored as a thrilling yet dangerous pursuit, reflecting a complex relationship between risk, skill, and personal motivation.
Training for highball climbing requires not just physical strength, but also mental preparedness and an understanding of personal risk thresholds.
As the climbing community grows, ongoing discussions about the subjective nature of grading reflect a need for continuous reassessment of climbing standards.
Deep dives
The Evolution of Bouldering Standards
Recent seasons have witnessed a significant shift in bouldering performance, with climbers reaching unprecedented levels. This change is characterized not just by individual achievements but by an overall increase in the upper end of the sport, suggesting a generational leap in skill and capability. The conversation points to key athletes pushing personal and collective boundaries, reflecting how the cumulative experience of numerous climbers results in ever-increasing standards. Factors such as the sheer volume of climbers performing at high levels contribute to this phenomenon, further driving the evolution of the sport.
Comparative Performance Insights
When analyzing the current generation of climbers, it’s essential to consider how they stack up against previous outliers. Adan Shahar, Kai Whaley, and others are pointed out as exemplary examples of this new wave, showcasing superior performance metrics compared to notable climbers from earlier eras. Significant discussions arise regarding the speed at which younger climbers are achieving difficult sends, raising questions about the evolving nature of talent in bouldering. An emphasis is placed on understanding the gradient of skill improvement over generations, acknowledging that peak accomplishments might not define inherent talent but rather the culmination of years of evolution.
The Nature of Climbing Education
The podcast draws attention to the evolution of climbing education, revealing a community that increasingly emphasizes learning from one another. Climbing refers to a climate where the younger generation seeks out advice and tips from experienced climbers, suggesting that humility and openness to feedback are essential traits necessary for advancement. It is proposed that the willingness of emerging talents to ask questions and implement learned strategies is a noteworthy factor in their rapid progression. As climbing becomes more interconnected through community support and mentorship, this shift in mindset seems crucial for the future of the sport.
The Current Landscape of Highball Climbing
Highball climbing continues to fascinate, with the hosts discussing the risks and considerations inherent to this facet of the sport. The conversation reflects on personal experiences with highball routes such as 'Too Big to Flail,' emphasizing both the exhilaration and terror accompanying such climbs. A notable emphasis is placed on the spirit of exploration that accompanies highball climbing, revealing how climbers balance the thrill of facing daunting ascents with necessary risk assessments. The desire to challenge oneself against the vertical expanse elevates climbing into a deeply personal experience where factors like fear, skill, and motivation intertwine.
Tim's Reflective Journey in Climbing
Reflecting on past experiences, Tim discusses the profound personal connection he has with highball climbs and how this relationship has evolved over time. As he balances life responsibilities against climbing aspirations, he acknowledges the emotional weight of risking one's life in pursuit of climbing goals. Encouraging dialogue about risk, he highlights the importance of community and personal responsibility for safety, creating a nuanced view of how individuals interact with danger in their passion. This introspective journey illustrates a climber's struggle to maintain passion for the sport amidst life changes while also encouraging thoughtful exploration of one’s limits.
The Role of Training and Preparation
Training strategies for highball climbing are discussed, focusing on how specific conditioning prepares climbers for the rigors of difficult ascents. The hosts share insights into how physical and mental preparation plays an integral role in the ability to tackle daunting routes effectively. Tim emphasizes the vital importance of building strength and endurance, but also champions the necessity of understanding personal thresholds of risk associated with highball climbing. Their dialogue suggests that effective preparation extends beyond physical training; mental readiness and coping strategies are equally crucial for achieving mastery in the sport.
Exploring the Heights of Bishop
The picturesque landscape of Bishop serves as a backdrop for climbers aiming to conquer highball routes, lending a sense of adventure to the climbing community. The hosts delve into the allure of the area, discussing specific routes, like 'Tears of Uncertainty,' showcasing the rich history and challenges that Bishop offers climbers. Their appreciation for this iconic climbing destination highlights the opportunity achieved through delicate balance, as derring-do and calculated risk intertwine in pursuit of success within this breathtaking environment. The overarching narrative emphasizes Bishop as a haven for those hungry for adventure, where climbing dreams are both formed and realized.
The Future of Climbing Grades
As the climbing community grows and evolves, discussions regarding grades and their significance in bouldering remain ongoing. The hosts examine the subjective nature of grading, particularly as new climbs emerge that challenge existing perceptions of difficulty. They ponder the implications of potential V17 or V18 climbs, acknowledging that the climbing evolution demands continuous reassessment of standards. This conversation illuminates not only climbers' ever-advancing skills but also the community’s responsibility to evaluate and acknowledge those feats accurately.
Highballing's Unique Challenges
Highball climbing represents a unique intersection of climbing skills and mental fortitude, where precise techniques must be executed over potentially dangerous heights. The dynamics of fear, excitement, and control come together to create an experience unlike any other in climbing. Although some climbers like Tim are fearless in the face of these heights, they express that the emotional weight of such endeavors can create a varied relationship with each climb. The podcast encourages understanding these dynamics, considering how individual climbers tackle the challenge both physically and mentally while emphasizing the need for safety and calculated decision-making.
The Importance of Community and Support
The conversation consistently highlights the vital role that community plays in the climbing world, particularly in fostering development and promoting safety. Tim shares reflections on how his climbing journey has been shaped by supportive peers and the insights gained from shared experiences. Acknowledging the collective effort that goes into preparing for climbs, the hosts reiterate that open discussions about risk, achievements, and learning from one another enhance the climbing experience. This camaraderie enriches the climbing culture, solidifying bonds among climbers as they navigate their respective journeys together.
Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts.
Tim and Josh also discuss what the future may hold in terms of grading, whether 15d is harder or easier than V17, and Tim shares what he things is the best highball in the world as well as what his next highball project may be.
Episodes with Tim are always fun and full of hot takes. Enjoy!
