Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

Episode #27: Ask Coach Horst - Round 3

Jul 28, 2018

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Welcome to Round #3 of "Ask Coach Hörst"...where I will answer 6 listener questions that I believe you will find interesting and informative. This episode covers wide-ranging topics from the pros/cons of calorie restriction vs. surplus, the possible unintended consequences of a vegan diet or vegetarianism, training while on business trips, training during long spells between climbing trips, the type of training program that's best for an intermediate (~5.10 climber), and more!

4:58 - Question #1 - How can I train effectively given my business travel (as a pilot) that typically lasts 8 days...followed by 6 days at home?

12:28 - Question #2 - My girlfriend and I are avid climbers of 5.10 ability...and we're wondering what the best training program is for us to progress into the higher grades?

17:54 - Question #3 - My outdoor "climbing season" comes down to a 2-week trips in the summer and winter. How can I best train as an indoor climber during the 5+ months between trips? Also, given my schedule, how often should I train the anaerobic lactic energy system?

24:18 - Question #4 - I seem to have reached a plateau at my current ability level of V8 boulders and 5.12d (sport climbs)...and I'm wonder which of your books would be best to guide me in training effectively for further improvement?

28:44 - Question #5 - I struggle with undercling and side-pull moves on steep terrain. How can I train to improve on these moves?

34:09 - Question #6 - I have a 3-part question relating to diet and specifically my vegan diet.

Is there an advantage to consuming a calorie surplus while training?
[42:00] As a hard-training climber (V10/5.13+), what are the possible cons of being a vegetarian or vegan?
[46:50] How much difference does a few pounds of bodyweight make in climbing performance?

NOTE: If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment to the Ask Coach Horst post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, climbing ability level, and years climbing.