History Extra podcast

Zoot suits, mashers & New Romantics: the evolution of the dandy

Aug 12, 2025
Join Peter Andersson, author of 'The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendour', as he dives into the fascinating evolution of dandyism. From zoot suiters to mashers, he explores how male fashion subcultures have shaped identity regardless of class. Discover the cultural significance of the zoot suit and its role in the 1940s riots, and learn how black dandyism has served as a powerful form of self-expression and resistance through history. Fashion isn't just for elites—it's a vibrant tapestry woven by all.
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INSIGHT

Dandyism As Popular Phenomenon

  • Dandyism isn't just elite vanity; it's a recurring popular phenomenon among ordinary men across centuries.
  • These men typically adopted a suit-and-tie uniform with local variations that defined subcultures.
INSIGHT

Who Became Dandies

  • Popular dandies mainly came from emerging lower-middle strata like shop assistants and clerks in the 19th century.
  • Expanding prosperity and media in the 20th century spread youth trends more widely and faster.
INSIGHT

Global Spread Of Western Male Fashion

  • Dandy fashions originated in the West as suit-based dress but spread globally via colonialism and cultural exchange.
  • Local variations appear worldwide, though subcultures only become truly global by the late 20th century.
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