E40 Overcoming Injuries, Finding Mastery, and Common Training Mistakes

In this episode, Kyra Condie and guest Dan Beall use Dan's experience with overcoming catastrophic injuries to give some advice when facing adversity in sport. They talk about Dan's shoulder dislocation and accompanying nerve damage that left him without a clear path to recovery and how he dealt with that, both mentally and physically. They also explore the nuances of confidence versus mastery, and how a delicate balance of the two can lead to an enjoyable experience for some (not all) on highball boulders, as well as how to confront fear in a safe and productive way. They finish by talking about the most common training plan mistakes Dan sees in his coaching and provide some tips to maximize your learning potential during each climbing session.