'Ruin their Crops on the Ground' tracks the history and politics of food in the U.S.
Sep 2, 2024
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Andrea Freeman, an author diving into food policy and societal control, joins NPR journalist Ayesha Rascoe to discuss the darker aspects of American food history. They explore how government orders, like George Washington's to destroy Indigenous food sources, reveal a long tradition of using food for oppression. Freeman highlights the politics behind nutrition campaigns, such as the promotion of milk, and discusses ongoing health disparities affecting marginalized communities. Their conversation unveils the complex relationship between food, power, and culture in America.
The U.S. government has historically manipulated food policies as a tool for political control and oppression, especially against marginalized groups.
Despite the promotion of certain foods like milk, health disparities persist due to inequitable access and corporate interests overshadowing community needs.
Deep dives
The Political Control of Food
Food has often been utilized as a means of political and economic control throughout American history. The U.S. government’s actions, from the slaughter of bison to limit Indigenous access to resources, illustrate a pattern of using food to subjugate marginalized communities. This historical approach extended to the Freedmen's Bureau during the post-emancipation era, where initially intended food rations were cut off to force formerly enslaved people back into labor on plantations. Such practices have contributed to ongoing health disparities, as the cycle of poverty and poor nutrition remains linked to historical food policies.
The Misconceptions Around Milk and Nutrition
Despite its promotion as a healthy drink, milk has a complex and problematic history, particularly regarding health effects on diverse populations. Campaigns to encourage milk consumption have been instituted through government programs, yet they overlook issues like lactose intolerance, which affects a significant portion of the population. The discussion of traditional foods, such as frybread and government cheese in Indigenous communities and soul food in the African American experience, highlights the joy these dishes bring despite their often unhealthy nature. The core issue lies not in the foods themselves but in the inequitable access to healthier options, driven largely by corporate interests rather than community needs.
Food is a source of nourishment, joy and autonomy for a lot of people – but in her new book, Ruin their Crops on the Ground, Andrea Freeman also tracks how the U.S. government has used food policy as a form of control and oppression. In today's episode, Freeman speaks with NPR's Ayesha Rascoe about how the book's title can be traced back to an order given by George Washington to destroy the food source of Indigenous nations, and how from slavery to Got Milk? campaigns to school lunches today, there's often a bigger political agenda behind nutrition education.
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