In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis. Takeaways

DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint.
Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain.
Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises.
Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury.
Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms.
Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury.
Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation.

Chapters

00:00 Introduction and Background
03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury
05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers
07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain
16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain
25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions
28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain
33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors
38:03 Pinch Grip Variations
42:08 Hangboard Recommendations
46:11 Returning to Climbing
48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis

Contact Steve Smith: stephen.smith.dpt@gmail.com

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