The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast E171: Eliot Stephens - A chat about development, tactics and guidebook writing with one of Wales' finest
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Oct 22, 2025 Eliot Stephens, a Welsh bouldering specialist and prolific first-ascensionist, dives into the world of climbing development and guidebook writing. He shares insights on transforming local bouldering scenes, the appeal of South Wales crags, and the nuances of his training ethos. Eliot discusses the balance of podcasting with climbing, comparing home boards to commercial gyms, and the emotional journey of tackling hard climbs. The conversation reveals the intimate connection between climbing tactics and personal motivation, offering a fresh perspective on the community's evolving landscape.
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Use Smoothies For Quick Nutrition
- Drinkable blended breakfasts can replace full meals when you prefer convenience and nutrients.
- Blitz fruit, oats and supplements into a smoothie to avoid skipping food and save prep time.
Choose Nearby Problems When Time Is Tight
- Prefer shorter drives when time is limited: local problems beat distant classics for scarce sessions.
- Use small nearby boulders to exploit brief windows like naps or tide gaps.
Ogmore Mushroom Suddenly Overrun
- Ogmore's mushroom boulder exploded in popularity after locals added low starts and adjacent problems.
- Eliot recalls kayaking back to find more people around that boulder than on the beach.
