The Climbing Doctor Podcast

DIP Joint Finger Injuries - Steve Smith

Mar 1, 2024

Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy specializing in DIP joint injuries, shares valuable insights for climbers dealing with this common issue. He breaks down the anatomy and mechanics of the finger, highlighting how climbing technique impacts joint health. Key topics include rehabilitation strategies, emphasizing dynamic warm-ups and strengthening exercises. Steve also discusses the importance of grip variations and proper wrist positioning. Additionally, he offers practical advice on safe hangboarding and modifying routines for those recovering from injury.

52:14

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Episode guests

Steve Smith

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Episode notes

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Quick takeaways

DIP joint pain in climbers often results from overuse, emphasizing the need for a deeper understanding of finger anatomy and mechanics.

Effective rehabilitation and prevention of DIP joint injuries involve dynamic warm-up exercises and strengthening both finger flexors and extensors.

Deep dives

Understanding DIP Joint Injuries in Climbers

DIP joint injuries, affecting the distal joint of the fingers, are a common concern among rock climbers, especially during activities that require crimping or finger cracks. These injuries arise from overuse, where the repetitive strain leads to inflammation of the synovium, causing pain and discomfort. Climbers often neglect the importance of the anatomy surrounding the DIP joint, focusing more on finger flexors instead of understanding how the flexor tendons and ligaments work together at this joint. The shift in injury patterns highlights the need for climbers to be aware of joint health and to balance their training to avoid this common injury.

Intro

2min

Understanding DIP Joint Injuries in Climbers

20min

Effective Warm-Up Techniques for Fingertip Rehabilitation

2min

Warm-Up Strategies for Climbing Finger Health

6min

The Interconnected Dynamics of Climbing Injuries

8min

Exploring Isometric Exercises for Climbers

2min

Strengthening Grip for Climbers

13min

In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis. Takeaways

DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint.
Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain.
Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises.
Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury.
Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms.
Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury.
Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation.

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