In this conversation, Steve Smith, a doctor of physical therapy, discusses DIP joint pain in climbers. He explains the anatomy of the finger and the specific joints involved in DIP joint pain. Steve highlights the causes and symptoms of this type of injury, emphasizing the importance of understanding the mechanics of climbing and the impact on the joints. He also provides insights into the rehabilitation process, including rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises. Steve discusses the role of other factors such as wrist position and technique in contributing to DIP joint pain. He concludes by recommending exercises to strengthen finger and wrist extensors, as well as pinch grip variations. In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve discuss hangboard recommendations, returning to climbing after an injury, and final thoughts on the diagnosis of DIP synovitis capsulitis. Takeaways
- DIP joint pain is a common injury in climbers, often caused by overuse and excessive stress on the joint.
- Understanding the anatomy of the finger and the mechanics of climbing can help prevent and manage DIP joint pain.
- Rehabilitation for DIP joint pain involves rest, joint mobility work, and dynamic warm-up exercises.
- Strengthening finger and wrist extensors, as well as varying grip positions, can help prevent and alleviate DIP joint pain. When it comes to hangboarding or climbing with an injury, it's important to find an entry point and modify the routine to avoid exacerbating the injury.
- Returning to climbing after an injury can be done by modifying the intensity and volume of climbing, focusing on slab climbing or easier holds, and monitoring symptoms.
- Managing DIP synovitis capsulitis requires finding the right dosage of training that allows progression without flaring up the injury.
- Seeking the guidance of a physical therapist or coach can help with individualizing the fingerboard program and ensuring proper rehabilitation.
Chapters
- 00:00 Introduction and Background
- 03:10 Understanding DIP Joint Anatomy and Injury
- 05:34 Increase in Joint-Related Injuries in Climbers
- 07:35 Causes and Symptoms of DIP Joint Pain
- 16:19 Rehabilitation Process for DIP Joint Pain
- 25:05 Importance of Varying Grip Positions
- 28:40 Other Factors Contributing to DIP Joint Pain
- 33:00 Exercises for Strengthening Finger and Wrist Extensors
- 38:03 Pinch Grip Variations
- 42:08 Hangboard Recommendations
- 46:11 Returning to Climbing
- 48:30 Final Thoughts on DIP Synovitis Capsulitis Diagnosis
Contact Steve Smith: stephen.smith.dpt@gmail.com
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Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools
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