The Nugget Climbing Podcast EP 269: The King of the Board Lords on Projecting Tactics, Protein, & Climbing 4 Hours Every Day — Sean Houchins-McCallum (sean911)
Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven’t seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallum
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized
(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months
(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day
(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler
(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?
(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber
(00:17:30) – Sean’s ultimate board proj (You’ve Seen the Butcher at 65º)
(00:19:10) – Board tactics
(00:21:28) – Why aren’t there V15s or harder on boards?
(00:26:14) – Getting outside
(00:27:45) – Sean’s dimensions
(00:29:24) – Sean’s warms up
(00:34:07) – A typical week
(00:36:52) – Sean’s projecting tactics
(00:40:42) – 2 months on
(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?
(00:54:20) – Sean’s weaknesses
(00:57:19) – The Spray layout
(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2
(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard
(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2
(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes
(01:11:36) – Working & setting
(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals
(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet
(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside
(01:31:57) – New board companies
(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature
(01:38:59) – Dream lines
(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions
(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?