Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including:

Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs)
The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment
Accessing thousands of points of climber data
Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang")
The shocking results of the finger strength study
What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength
Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers
Goals for more studies and exploring other variables

Bonus Eps and Full Videos (FREE TRIAL!):

patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube @thestruggleclimbingshow

Watch Emil's video recap of the finger strength study over on his YT channel.

Dr. Keith Baar's Article: https://sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!

From Tech Savvy to CTO Leadership Excellence with Monica Guzman - S1-Ep12