The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast
E64: Solly Kemball-Dory - 8C FAs, tidal bouldering and FA ethics
Sep 20, 2023
Solly Kemball-Dory, a talented climber, discusses his experiences climbing abroad and his mishaps and successes. They talk about the limited climbing options nearby and transitioning from competitions to outdoor bouldering. The podcast explores climbing experiences and locations, the controversy surrounding grading in climbing, ethics of using natural features as holds, wave encounters, closed projects in climbing, challenges of climbing specific boulders, climbing style and weaknesses, challenging times in Rocklands, the importance of climbing outside, the impact of removing lichens and seaweed in climbing development, and tips for developing climbing areas.
02:08:29
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Quick takeaways
- Coastal bouldering in Cornwall offers a unique and challenging climbing experience due to tidal and wet conditions.
- When developing a boulder, Solly considers lines, movement, padding, and overall difficulty, with a focus on aesthetic appeal.
Deep dives
Poseidon's Wrath Bouldering Route
Poseidon's Wrath is a newly developed bouldering route located in Boscastle, Cornwall. The boulder offers powerful and technical moves, focusing on shoulder strength and tension. Solly Kemble Dory, the first ascensionist, originally suggested a grade of 8C+, but capped it at 8C to account for Aidan's potential ease in climbing the route. The boulder is subject to coastal conditions, including tides and waves, which can make climbing challenging. The area is often wet, and climbers may need to dry holds frequently. Despite the logistical challenges, the coastal boulders in Cornwall offer a unique and rewarding climbing experience.
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