The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training

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Feb 18, 2015

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I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview!

About Adam Ondra

He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him.

He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.

As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.

And that's not even including his bouldering accomplishments, which include 202 boulders between V11 and V16. Jeeeeez...

Here's what we talked about:

How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships
How he used to train before he started training with Patxi
How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
The prospect of climbing 5.15d
His thoughts on diet and body weight