Dia Hadid, NPR's investigative reporter, dives into the delicious and contentious world of butter chicken. She uncovers its historical roots linked to the 1947 partition of South Asia and two rival chefs from Peshawar claiming its creation. The conversation touches on the intertwining of culinary history with ownership disputes and the dish’s rise in global popularity, fueled by political figures and celebrity endorsements. It's a fascinating exploration of food, culture, and the legacy we savor.
Butter chicken's origin story is deeply rooted in India's tumultuous history and reflects themes of migration and cultural adaptation.
A legal dispute over butter chicken's invention highlights the complexities of culinary heritage and individual claims to cultural identity.
Deep dives
The Complex Origins of Butter Chicken
Butter chicken, a beloved dish in India, has a complicated history intertwined with the region's tumultuous past, particularly around the partition of South Asia in 1947. Originating from two cooks, Kundalal Jaggi and Kundalal Gujral, who arrived in New Delhi from Peshawar, the dish became a staple at their joint restaurant, Moti Mahal. This eatery not only introduced locals to the creamy and flavorful dish but also gained popularity among high-profile guests, including India’s first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru. The success story of butter chicken reflects deeper narratives of identity, migration, and cultural adaptation within modern India.
The Legal Battle Over Culinary Heritage
A legal dispute has arisen over the claim of inventing butter chicken, with both the Jaggi and Gujral families arguing for their respective legacies. The conflict escalated when Jaggi's grandson asserted on television that his grandfather invented the dish by creating a buttery tomato sauce to extend tandoori chicken. In response, the Gujrals filed a lengthy lawsuit, asserting their ancestor’s creation of the dish predates the partition, linking it to a previous restaurant in Peshawar. This contentious debate highlights the complexities of culinary heritage and ownership, suggesting that the true origins of butter chicken may blend history, culture, and individual claims.
In an episode we first brought you in March, we consider butter chicken. It is a much-loved Indian dish, both within that country and around the world. But who can claim they invented it? That question is the subject of a lawsuit. Our reporter tries to get to the bottom of butter chicken's origin and finds out that it is a journey through India's history.