Drew Ruana: Climbing Hard Everyday, Never Hang Boarding, Progression, and When to Walk Away
Jan 4, 2024
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Elite climber Drew Ruana shares his struggles and breakthroughs in training, nutrition, tactics, and mental game. Drew's impressive climbing achievements are discussed, including his success in youth competitions and numerous first ascents. The podcast covers topics like balancing climbing and school, learning from failure, nutrition and guilty pleasures, mentorship and tactical lessons in climbing, and the process of projecting difficult climbs. The conversation also touches on the challenges of balancing climbing with work and the benefits of having a CS degree. Overall, it's a thoughtful and insightful conversation for climbers of all levels.
Timing is crucial in climbing, and waiting for the right moment with favorable conditions can greatly contribute to success on challenging projects.
Building body tension through core strength exercises like front levers allows climbers to maintain body position, conserve energy, and execute difficult moves.
Finding the right sequence of boulders to attempt, being patient with the process, and recognizing the right moment to return to a project can maximize strength gain and increase chances of success.
Deep dives
Importance of Timing in Climbing
One of the tactical lessons Drew has learned is the importance of timing in climbing. He believes that there is a specific sequence of boulders that can significantly increase strength, and it is up to each individual to figure out that sequence. Waiting for the right time, when everything aligns, such as good weather, optimal body condition, and mental readiness, can greatly contribute to success on a challenging project.
Importance of Body Tension
Another tactical lesson Drew has learned is the significance of body tension in climbing. He emphasizes that building core strength, such as through exercises like front levers, is valuable for maintaining body position and using the least amount of energy while climbing. Developing body tension allows him to stay close to the wall, reach foot holds, and execute moves that might otherwise be difficult.
Finding the Right Sequence and Being Patient
Drew has learned the importance of finding the right sequence of boulders to try and being patient with the process. He believes that there is a specific order in which boulders should be attempted to maximize strength gain and skill development. Sometimes, taking a step back and trying other boulders while waiting for the right moment can lead to better chances of success. It's about recognizing when the time is right to return to a project and having confidence that the strength and skills have improved during the wait.
Letting Go of Pressure and Having Fun
During his climbing career, Drew has realized the importance of letting go of self-imposed pressure and focusing on having fun. He has learned that putting excessive pressure on himself can hinder his performance and take away the enjoyment of climbing. By detaching from external expectations and finding joy in the process, he has experienced better performance and a healthier mindset.
The Importance of Finding Joy in the Climbing Process
Drew emphasizes the importance of finding joy in the process of climbing, even when faced with challenges and frustrations. He shares his personal growth in how he has shifted his mindset and now embraces the process of climbing, rather than focusing solely on the end result. He discusses the universal emotions of frustration and disappointment when things don't go as planned, but highlights the importance of finding healthy ways to deal with these emotions. Drew shares his personal experiences of overcoming frustration and how he has learned to handle setbacks and setbacks in a more positive and productive manner.
The Power of Persistence and Tactical Approaches in Climbing
Drew discusses the value of persistence and tactical approaches in climbing. He describes how the process of trying and refining beta and sequences can lead to gradual progress and eventual success. Drew emphasizes the importance of analyzing moves, considering different beta options, and strategically problem-solving to optimize performance on difficult climbs. He shares his personal tactics for approaching challenging moves and explains the benefits of experimenting with different sequences. Drew also encourages climbers to expand their horizons and explore new areas and climbs to continue pushing their limits and improve their climbing abilities.
Elite climber Drew Ruana shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game
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Drew started climbing at Smith Rock at the age of 3, and it didn’t take long for him to climb the place out. His focus in those earlier years was on sport climbing, and the kid was a crusher, sending Just Do It, the first 5.14C / 8C+ in the US, at 15 years old. Drew also dominated on the youth comp circuit, taking first place twice at US Youth Nationals in sport and once in bouldering.
More recently, Drew has developed a passion for sending and developing the hardest outdoor rigs he can find. Are you ready to have your mind blown? At the time of our interview, Drew had sent 90 V14s (8B+), 37 V15s (8C), and 10 V16s (8C+). Put in a bit of perspective, I believe Daniel Woods has sent 8 V16s and Will Bosi has sent two. Drew has 10. It's outrageous to think about what the future holds for this guy. This conversation is thoughtful and full of incredibly useful insights for climbers of all levels.
BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE:
Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.
PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
ShayrdAir: Sign up to have Jordan Cannon as your climbing mentor! This in-depth 4-month experience is capped at just 30 climbers. Use code STRUGGLE to score $300 off this incredible mentorship program.
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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.
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