Ellen T. Meiser, "Making It: Success in the Commercial Kitchen" (Rutgers UP, 2024)
Sep 27, 2024
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Ellen T. Meiser, a sociologist and author, explores success in the competitive restaurant industry. She discusses how 'kitchen capital'—both skills and emotional intelligence—affects career growth. Ellen shares insights from her 120 hours in kitchen environments and interviews with fifty culinary professionals. Topics include the impact of COVID-19, the identity struggles of chefs, and the stark contrasts between working in small establishments versus larger franchises. Her findings reveal the intricate dynamics and social hierarchies that shape the culinary world.
Success in the culinary field is influenced by factors like kitchen capital, workplace culture fit, and emotional control among workers.
The COVID-19 pandemic significantly worsened pre-existing vulnerabilities in the restaurant industry, highlighting the need for better protections for kitchen workers.
Deep dives
Understanding Success in the Culinary Industry
The podcast delves into the nuances of success within the culinary field, emphasizing that success varies significantly among individuals working in the restaurant industry. It discusses how success is often perceived differently based on the environment, such as fine dining versus corporate kitchens. Many kitchen workers tie their sense of achievement to creativity, skill, and professional recognition, with a specific focus on how the title 'chef' is attributed based on one’s role and the level of expertise. The exploration also touches upon the contradiction of ordinary versus extraordinary experiences in a profession that is largely viewed through a lens of dramatization in media.
The Complexities of Kitchen Hierarchy
The complexity of hierarchy in a kitchen setting is highlighted, illustrating the distinction between 'chef' and 'kitchen manager,' and how these roles impact perceptions of authority and skill. Chefs often are characterized by their creative freedom and formal recognition, while kitchen managers may lead without the same accolades due to the standardized tasks they perform in restaurant chains. This segmentation creates a unique language and culture within kitchens, often influenced by media portrayals, which can alter public understanding of these positions. Furthermore, the significance of teamwork in the back of the house is emphasized, where collective recognition is essential to validate an individual's status as a chef.
Challenges in the Culinary Profession
The episode addresses the harsh realities of the culinary profession, specifically the high turnover rates and the short career lifespan of many kitchen workers. It cites staggering statistics, noting that the food service industry often faces an 86% turnover rate, significantly higher than the national average. Factors such as long hours, physical demands, and low wages contribute to career instability, prompting many chefs to change jobs frequently. Despite the challenges, the conversation acknowledges the rewarding aspects of cooking, such as creativity and camaraderie among kitchen staff, which attract individuals to remain in this demanding field.
Impact of COVID-19 on Restaurants
The podcast explores the profound impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the restaurant industry, noting the significant increase in closures and the challenges for those that remained open. Pre-existing vulnerabilities in the industry were exacerbated by lockdowns, leading to a substantial loss of jobs and permanent closures of many restaurants. It discusses the inadequate governmental support that was made available to help independent restaurants, a sector critical to employment yet often overlooked. These circumstances have brought to light systemic issues within the culinary field, emphasizing the urgent need for better protections and benefits for kitchen workers.
The restaurant industry is one of the few places in America where workers from lower-class backgrounds can rise to positions of power and prestige. Yet with over four million cooks and food-preparation workers employed in America’s restaurants, not everyone makes it to the high-status position of chef. What factors determine who rises the ranks in this fiercely competitive pressure-cooker environment?
In Making It: Success in the Commercial Kitchen (Rutgers University Press, 2024), Ellen T. Meiser explores how the career path of restaurant workers depends on their accumulation of kitchen capital, a cultural asset based not only on their ability to cook but also on how well they can fit into the workplace culture and negotiate its hierarchical structures. After spending 120 hours working in a restaurant kitchen and interviewing fifty chefs and cooks from fine-dining establishments and greasy-spoon diners across the country, sociologist Ellen Meiser discovers many strategies for accumulating kitchen capital. For some, it involves education and the performance of expertise; others climb the ranks by controlling their own emotions or exerting control over coworkers. Making It offers a close and personal look at how knowledge, power, and interpersonal skills come together to determine who succeeds and who fails in the high-pressure world of the restaurant kitchen.
Michael O. Johnston, Ph.D. is a Assistant Professor of Sociology at William Penn University. He is the author of The Social Construction of a Cultural Spectacle: Floatzilla (Lexington Books, 2023) and Community Media Representations of Place and Identity at Tug Fest: Reconstructing the Mississippi River (Lexington Books, 2022). His general area of study is at the intersection of built-environment, experience, identity, and place. He is currently conducting research on how architectural designers, builders, and community planners negotiate a sense of identity and place for residents of newly constructed neighborhoods. To learn more about Michael O. Johnston you can go to his website, Google Scholar, Twitter @ProfessorJohnst, or by email at johnstonmo@wmpenn.edu.