Episode #30: IRCRA Research Highlights & Training Tips

0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts.

5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in Chamonix, France.

10:40 - Research highlight #1: 3-D motion analysis of speed climbing performance, and interpretation of hip mechanical energy in official speed climbing route. (Lionel Reveret - France).

14:45 - Research highlight #2: Effect of climbing hold depth on biomechanical arm action during pull-ups. (Laurent Vigouroux - France)

22:55 - Research highlight #3: PIP joint contact incongruency in different grip positions as a trigger for epiphyseal fatigue fracture in adolescent climbers. (Andreas Schweizer - Switzerland)

31:20 - Research highlights #4 & 5: Association between different Rate of Force Development-measurements and climbing performance (Vegard Vereide - Norway),  and the Rate of Force Development: a new biomechanical key factor in climbing (Guillaume Levernier - France).

40:45 - Research highlight #6: The effects of weighted dead-hang training program on grip strength and endurance in experienced climbers with different levels of strength (Eva Lopez-Rivera - Spain).

52:52 - Research highlight #7: Qualitative analysis of two of 2017's greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirements (Eric Hörst - USA)

1:05:08 - The ultimate lesson from Hayes' and Ondra's ascents—climb quickly, accurately, and efficiently, and pause to rest only at effective rest positions. In short, the Hörst rule for lead climbing peak performance: Climb fast and rest well!

1:07:24 - My shout out to a few of the numerous coaches now bringing climbing science to their work as trainers!

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Music by: Misty Murphy

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Photo: Eric Hörst presenting at the IRCRA conference in Chamonix, France, July 2018.