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This Is TASTE
507: Melissa Clark Wrote a Very Critical, Extremely Buzzy New York Times Review of Per Se and the French Laundry
Dec 7, 2024
Melissa Clark, a prolific cookbook author and interim restaurant critic for the New York Times, brings a fresh perspective on fine dining in her latest review of Thomas Keller's Per Se and the French Laundry. She delves into the tension between traditional and modern dining cultures, sharing her personal expectations versus reality at these acclaimed spots. The discussion also touches on the impact of anonymity in restaurant reviews, the quirks of contemporary desserts, and the importance of authentic culinary experiences over social prestige.
28:37
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Quick takeaways
- Modern dining experiences are evolving beyond mere meals, with diners increasingly seeking emotional connections and artistic expressions from chefs.
- The contrasting fortunes of Per Se and the French Laundry highlight a potential complacency in high-end dining, questioning their commitment to culinary innovation.
Deep dives
The Evolution of Fine Dining Experiences
Fine dining experiences are shifting, with diners increasingly seeking more than just a meal. Many people desire unforgettable culinary experiences that evoke emotions and provide insights into a chef's vision, akin to experiencing art in a gallery. However, there remains a subset of diners who view visits to renowned establishments as a social status symbol, emphasizing external validation over authentic culinary enjoyment. This duality highlights the complexity of modern dining, where the motivations behind patronage can significantly vary.
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