Want Fresh Local Crab for Thanksgiving? You'll Have to Get It Yourself
Nov 25, 2024
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Azul Dostrom-Ekman, a KQED reporter, dives into the challenges the Bay Area faces with its beloved Dungeness crab tradition during Thanksgiving. She discusses how recent delays in commercial crabbing seasons impact local families and their customs, particularly amid rising competition from Washington's crab. Recognizing the cultural significance of fresh crab, especially within Filipino heritage, she shares insights into recreational crabbing as an alternative. Ecological concerns and the effects of climate change also raise important questions for the future of this cherished holiday staple.
The delay in the commercial crabbing season forces Bay Area families to seek alternative sources of fresh Dungeness crab for Thanksgiving, impacting their traditional holiday menus.
Cultural significance of enjoying fresh crab during Thanksgiving fosters family bonding and community connection, highlighting the loss felt with diminished access to local seafood.
Deep dives
The Decline of the Crab Tradition
The tradition of serving Dungeness crab at Thanksgiving in the Bay Area is facing significant challenges due to a decline in availability. Historically, the crab season opened on November 15th, perfectly timed for holiday feasts. However, delays in the commercial crab fishery, caused by regulations to protect migrating whales, have disrupted this practice, forcing families to reconsider their menu. Many locals now find themselves dependent on out-of-state crab, which lacks the fresh, local quality they cherish, altering the essence of their Thanksgiving gatherings.
The Importance of Local Practices
For many families, including immigrants like Vicky Francisco, the preparation and consumption of fresh crab embody cultural significance and community bonding. Vicky emphasizes the unique experience of gathering around a table with family to enjoy crab prepared simply with garlic butter and vinegar, a tradition she inherited from her mother. This method of eating, known as Kamayan, fosters a sense of togetherness, contrasting with the more solitary act of carving turkey. With diminished access to fresh crab, families lament a loss of connection to both their cultural roots and local traditions.
Impact of Fishing Regulations
The shift in the commercial crabbing season is tied to strict regulations aimed at protecting marine life, particularly whales that have become entangled in fishing gear. Since 2015, rules have mandated aerial and boat surveys to assess whale populations off the California coast, delaying the crab season when necessary. Fishermen have expressed that these regulations, although well-intentioned, threaten their livelihoods, with many fearing they might go out of business if this pattern continues. The combination of environmental changes and regulatory pressures has created an uncertain future for the crab fishing industry, leaving both fishermen and consumers struggling to adapt.
Many Bay Area families swear by local Dungeness crab at the holiday dinner table. But for the last 6 years, commercial crabbing season has been delayed to mid-December. So if you want that fresh crab for Thanksgiving, you'll need to either pay for a chartered boat or go catch one yourself.
This episode was produced by Alan Montecillo and Jessica Kariisa, and hosted by Ericka Cruz Guevarra.