NPR's Book of the Day 'Russ & Daughters' cookbook documents a century-old New York City establishment
Jan 5, 2026
Josh Russ Tupper and Nikki Russ Fetterman, fourth-generation co-owners of the iconic Russ & Daughters, share their family's century-old journey. They discuss the shop's evolution from a herring pushcart to a beloved appetizing store, famous for smoked salmon and bagels. Memories of childhood at the shop provide insight into their new cookbook, which blends history and recipes. The duo explains the cultural significance of food on the Lower East Side and how it connects customers to their own histories, all while emphasizing their commitment to keeping family traditions alive.
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Childhood In The Shop
- Nikki Russ Fetterman describes growing up in the shop and waiting for produce deliveries as a child, climbing on sacks like a chariot.
- She and Josh Russ Tupper inherited the family business and still operate the original appetizing cases by hand.
Appetizing Store Versus Deli
- Russ and Daughters is an appetizing store distinct from a delicatessen, focusing on fish and dairy instead of cured meats.
- That distinction reflects Jewish dietary traditions and shapes the shop's century-long identity.
From Pushcart Herring To Sliced Salmon
- Josh Russ Tupper recounts the shop's evolution from selling schmaltz herring from a pushcart to offering a dozen types of cold-smoked salmon today.
- He demonstrates the traditional hand-slicing technique that takes months to learn and preserves delicate flavor.
