E63: Billy Ridal - Comp retirement, rock success and Yosemite goals
Sep 13, 2023
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Billy Ridal, an accomplished climber, talks about his retirement from the comp scene, successful rock trips, and his upcoming goals in Yosemite. The podcast also discusses topics such as quantifying climbing technique using force plates, struggles during the climbing season, transitioning to a new coach, reflections on retirement from competitions, and the excitement of a climbing challenge.
The podcast guest made significant career changes, transitioning to a new job and switching coaches to explore a different approach.
The guest faced challenges and setbacks in his competition season, struggling with his mental game and physical injuries.
After a disappointing demonstration in a bouldering selection event, the guest decided to retire from competition.
Despite retiring, the guest remains positive and excited for new opportunities, such as outdoor climbing and pursuing other adventures.
Deep dives
Big changes and challenges
After a disappointing competition season, the podcast guest decides to make some significant changes in his career and coaching. He transitions to a new job that allows for more flexibility and less physical strain, and he switches coaches to explore a different approach. He acknowledges the risk and uncertainty of these changes but remains determined to give it a shot.
Struggles and setbacks
Despite his best efforts, the podcast guest continues to face challenges and setbacks in his competition season. He struggles with his mental game, experiencing self-doubt and negative thoughts during competitions. He faces physical injuries and limitations, such as a hamstring issue. These difficulties impact his performance in the selection events.
Gaining perspective and making a decision
After a particularly disappointing demonstration in a bouldering selection event, the podcast guest realizes that it is time for a change. He reflects on his goals and desires for his climbing career and makes the difficult decision to retire from competition. This decision is not taken lightly, but he believes it is the right choice for him.
Looking to the future
Despite retiring from competition, the podcast guest remains positive and excited for what lies ahead. He expresses gratitude for his experiences, learns from his challenges, and looks forward to pursuing other opportunities, such as outdoor climbing. This decision marks the beginning of a new chapter in his climbing journey.
Preparing for a Big Challenge
Bill and Alex have decided to take on the audacious goal of free climbing The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite. Despite having no prior experience in big wall climbing, they are motivated by the challenge and are ready to step outside of their comfort zones. They have been training by getting out for trad climbing sessions, focusing on learning gear placement and building confidence above their own gear. Although uncertain about the outcome, they are excited for the adventure and are prepared for any calamities that may arise during their six-week trip.
The Iconic Nose Route
The Nose is the most famous route on El Capitan, known for its historical significance and iconic status. While the majority of ascents have been done using aid climbing, Bill and Alex aim to free climb it, which has been achieved by a small number of climbers. The route is challenging, especially two difficult pitches, but they are hopeful that their climbing style and skills will translate well on this big wall. They plan to approach the climb in stages, aiming to get up the route mostly free and then going for a ground-up attempt.
Embracing the Adventure
Bill and Alex are prepared for the unknowns and challenges that await them in Yosemite. They acknowledge that their lack of experience in big wall climbing may result in unexpected setbacks and learning opportunities. Despite the potential for epic failures, they maintain a sense of humor and are looking forward to the adventure, whether they succeed or not. With six weeks at their disposal, they plan to become more comfortable on smaller walls before attempting The Nose, and they are ready to fully embrace the experience.
Sharing the Journey
While the details of documenting their journey are still being determined, Bill and Alex hope to share their experience with others in some form. They may create vlogs or compile footage to provide insights into their training, preparation, and climbing attempts. They want to capture the stories and moments that unfold during their time in Yosemite, and share the excitement and challenges they encounter along the way.
Billy is back! Our very first guest returns with an update on all that's been going on since last we spoke.. And it's quite a lot! Billy is a top bloke and a good mate of both of ours so it's always a fun chat when he's around. We chat about him taking a step back from the comp scene (he's not actually officially retired but that made for a snappier title), some successful rock trips and he's got some big and exciting goals to chase on his upcoming Yosemite trip.
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