Senior Jewellery Curator at the V&A Helen Molesworth - The Dazzling History of Gems
Aug 30, 2024
auto_awesome
Helen Molesworth, a Senior Jewellery Curator at the V&A Museum, dives into the enchanting world of gems and their historical significance. She uncovers how emeralds and rubies have shaped human stories and ideals, while pearls transition from symbols of regal power to icons of fashion. Molesworth sheds light on jade's protective qualities and explores the emotional connections in the gem industry. From ancient history to modern styles, this discussion reveals gems as reflections of societal changes and personal aspirations.
Gems like emeralds and rubies have profoundly influenced cultural narratives, symbolizing ideals and human emotions throughout history.
The value of gemstones varies over time due to societal trends, with certain gems experiencing both declines and resurgences in popularity.
Deep dives
Formation and Uniqueness of Gemstones
Gemstones are formed through a variety of geological processes, making each one unique. The formation can occur under different conditions, such as high pressures and temperatures, resulting in distinct characteristics like color and clarity. For example, emeralds require the specific combination of beryllium, chromium, and vanadium found under rare geological conditions, often occurring in different colors within the same crystal. This variability contributes to the uniqueness of each gemstone and highlights the intricate interplay between the elements present during their formation.
Cultural Significance and Myths Surrounding Gems
Throughout history, gemstones have been deeply tied to cultural myths and narratives that reflect human emotions and experiences. The tales often narrate the natural miracles of gem formation combined with human myth-making, leading to rich stories like that of Colombian emeralds, which involve themes of loyalty and divine retribution. Similarly, pearls have been regarded as symbols of purity and have a fascinating myth tied to dew drops falling from the sky into oysters. These narratives demonstrate how gemstones have not only served as adornments but also encapsulated powerful cultural messages and beliefs.
Historical Shifts in Gem Valuation
The value of gemstones can dramatically shift over time due to various factors, including fashion, politics, and supply and demand dynamics. The discussion highlighted how rubies were historically regarded as immensely valuable due to their rarity, while garnets and spinels, once prominent gems, experienced declines in appreciation due to various market influences. However, both gems are witnessing a renaissance with the discovery of new varieties and colors in recent decades. This fluctuation in status underscores how human societal trends influence the perception and desirability of certain gemstones.
Human Impact and Stories Behind Gems
The journey of gemstones extends beyond their aesthetic appeal; the individuals who mine and cultivate them play a crucial role in their narrative. Artisanal mining practices, particularly in places like Sri Lanka, support local communities and maintain cultural traditions related to gem extraction. Encounters with miners reveal personal stories, such as the tradition of presenting candles to signify good luck following significant gem discoveries. These intimate connections emphasize that the true value of gemstones lies in the shared human experiences and the livelihoods they sustain.
From ancient thrones to Hollywood stars, gems have not only adorned humanity but also shaped its history. How did emeralds and rubies etch our origin stories? How did garnets embody the flickering soul or jade the tenets of living a good life? Senior Jewellery Curator at the V&A Museum Helen Molesworth reveals how gems came to embody our most cherished ideals, our most vicious battles for power, and our evolving understanding of ourselves.