In this engaging conversation, historian and tartan expert Peter MacDonald delves into the colorful and often misunderstood history of tartan. He reveals how this iconic fabric evolved from regional use to a national symbol of Scotland. MacDonald also discusses the origins of regimental tartans, the impact of the tartan ban post-Jacobite uprisings, and the revival of tartan in Victorian times. Listeners will enjoy insights into ancient weaving traditions and essential tips for researching tartan history effectively.
Tartan's association with Scottish clans solidified during the 18th century, notably during the Jacobite risings, despite its earlier sparse historical records.
The Victorian era revived tartan's popularity, transforming it into a fashionable symbol of Scottish identity and cultural heritage for all social classes.
Deep dives
The Origins and Misconceptions of Tartan
Tartan’s historical significance is often misunderstood, with many believing that each Scottish name corresponds to a unique tartan. In reality, although there are over 10,000 tartans, many names share the same pattern due to modern tartans being created for organizations and institutions. Traditionally, tartan was primarily a highland material, and most Scots did not wear it, especially not in the form of kilts. The notion that tartan is uniquely Scottish is also misleading, as similar textiles have existed globally, including examples from China and Egypt dating back to 2000 BC.
The Historical Timeline of Tartan
The connection between tartan and Scottish clans primarily took shape in the 18th century, particularly during the Jacobite risings. Prior to this period, records of tartan appearances are sparse and mostly anecdotal, but tartan became a significant symbol of cultural identity due to its association with Highlanders during this time. The 1745 Jacobite Rising, led by Bonnie Prince Charlie, marked a notable moment when various troops wore tartan to symbolize unity. However, the widespread attribution of specific clan tartans emerged only during the 19th-century Highland Revival, which sought to preserve Gaelic traditions.
Production Techniques and Symbolism of Tartan
Historically, tartan was made from wool sourced from indigenous sheep, often spun by hand using drop spindles before being woven on looms in a home industry setup. The colors and patterns of tartan were not symbolic; instead, wearers chose based on availability and personal preference, with wealthy individuals able to afford luxury fabrics. The production process relied on local dye plants, which meant color choices were not geographically restricted. Extreme customization was common, with individuals often requesting specific changes to traditional patterns based on personal taste.
Cultural Impact and Contemporary Tartan
The Victorian era saw a resurgence of interest in tartan, especially following cultural events such as King George IV's visit to Edinburgh in 1822, which sparked a fashion trend among various social classes. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, tartan became a staple in fashion and décor, appearing on textiles from clothing to household items like shortbread tins. Today, tartan symbolizes Scottish identity while simultaneously serving as a fashionable choice beyond conventional attire. The growing appreciation among younger generations reflects a desire to reconnect with cultural heritage, as new tartans are designed to represent modern Scottish identities.
We're all familiar with the checks and stripes of tartan. But, how much do you know about the colourful history of the textile famously sported by the Scottish clans? According to historian and tartan expert Peter MacDonald, some of our favourite 'facts' surrounding the chequered material might not be as accurate as we think. Speaking to Emily Briffett, and answering listener questions, Peter charts tartan's long story - from its early origins, to its growing status as a national symbol and commercial icon.
The HistoryExtra podcast is produced by the team behind BBC History Magazine.