The Documentary Podcast What is the 'Russian cultural code'?
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Nov 27, 2025 Veronika Malinboim, a researcher and fashion commentator, and Yulia Volovik, a cultural researcher, delve into the resurgence of traditional Russian fashion, particularly the kokoshnik headdress. They discuss how this symbol has become a tool for promoting national identity, especially under Putin's regime. The conversation explores the intertwining of fashion, patriotism, and cultural policies that shape modern Russian society. From the online popularity of folk styles to the influence of state-sanctioned narratives, they investigate the complex 'Russian cultural code' that defines contemporary identity.
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Vague Phrase, Powerful Purpose
- The phrase "Russian cultural code" is widely invoked but remains vague to most Russians.
- It functions as a state-framed identity marker that appears across fashion, media and politics.
Kokoshnik Brought Into Conversation
- Yulia Volovik brings a kokoshnik, describing its history as a decorated, status-signalling headdress.
- The kokoshnik evokes fairy-tale figures and has resurfaced as a modern tiara-like fashion piece.
Folk Elements Become Urban Fashion
- Searches and social posts for kokoshniks surged, and designers modernise folk items for urban wear.
- Traditional garments are repurposed as symbols of national identity and everyday fashion.
