The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast TBP 239 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Training Finger Endurance
In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about how we can increase our finger endurance without putting ourselves in a huge recovery hole from the session. Tyler uses a strain gauge (in this case a Tindeq Progressor) for this kind of workout (as he does for a lot of his training).
I actually ended up being so convinced by this episode that I finally got a Tindeq for myself! He has a code you can use for $10 off, which I used. It’s “C4HP” at this site. This isn’t meant to be an advertisement for them and I have no affiliation with the company, but after hearing Tyler talk about this thing for literally years, I needed to have one. I’m about to start doing these endurance workouts this week.
So in this episode, Tyler goes into a lot of detail about what your workouts should look like to get the most out of an endurance finger training session, why what we’ve been doing traditionally doesn’t make quite as much sense as what he’s recommending, and how it’s helped his athletes with their route training.
About TylerTyler owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program Master’s degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. While in graduate school he worked with the University of Missouri athletics department and currently is employed through two colleges in Utah.
He is certified through the National Strength and Conditioning Association as a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist and spends any extra time in his life with his wife and 4 kids or trad climbing or bouldering.
You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic or online at Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.
Other Episodes with Tyler- TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
- TBP 212: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
- TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Injuries in Youth Climbers
- TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training
- TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
- TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
- TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing
- TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
- TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
- TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
- TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
- TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
- TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries
- TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
- Personal website: camp4humanperformance.com
- Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
- Do a consultation with Tyler
- Instagram: @c4hp
- Facebook: @camp4chiropractic
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.
Training Programs from TrainingBetaDo you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…