Planet Money

How Black hair care grew Black power

28 snips
Jan 7, 2026
George E. Johnson, co-founder of Johnson Products Company, shares his journey in the Black hair care industry. He reveals how Afro-Sheen funded Soul Train and supported the civil rights movement. Discussing product innovation, he explains how he transformed dangerous relaxers into popular cosmetics. Johnson reflects on building a thriving business while uplifting the Black community. Ultimately, he addresses the challenges and changes leading to the company’s sale, highlighting the shift in ownership within the hair care market today.
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ANECDOTE

From Lab Experiments To Barber Shop Hit

  • George E. Johnson developed a shelf-stable hair straightener after experimenting in a lab and partnering with a barber.
  • He and Joan turned Ultra Wave into a regional hit by teaching barbers and expanding city by city.
INSIGHT

Hair As Social Mobility Signal

  • Straightening hair signaled assimilation and workplace respectability for Black Americans in the 1950s.
  • George Johnson recognized this demand and built products to meet those social pressures.
ANECDOTE

Joan’s Debt-Collecting Grit

  • Joan Johnson aggressively collected debts in barber shops, sitting and reading Ebony until she was paid.
  • That toughness built a reputation that helped Johnson Products grow distribution and trust.
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