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11min chapter
Laird Hamilton
Tetragrammaton with Rick Rubin
Surfing Through Memory and Innovation
This chapter delves into the speaker's childhood memories of surfing, including their initial experiences and the dangers of the ocean that shaped their respect for nature. The discussion evolves to cover the transformation of surfing culture and equipment, from the rebellious roots of the 1960s to the technological advancements in surfboard design. They highlight how innovation often arises unexpectedly through experimentation, showcasing the dynamic interplay between surfers and their equipment.
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