#86 Laird Hamilton - Near-Death Surf Experiences and Surviving JAWS | Part 2
Shawn Ryan Show
The Art and Depth of Surfing
This chapter explores the complexities of surfing, detailing how wave formation is influenced by storms and experienced surfers' ability to predict wave behavior. It contrasts competitive surfing with artistic expression, sharing personal anecdotes about the challenges and rewards of embracing one's unique approach to the sport. Additionally, it emphasizes the importance of the beginner's journey, the transformative nature of overcoming initial struggles, and the evolving landscape of competitive surfing.
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