Mattias Braach-Maksvytis is an expert boulderer and a doctor of PhysioTherapy from Australia. This episode is all about dynos! Ethan Pringle joins us for another fireside chat as we talk about how Mattias became “the dyno guy” in Rocklands, categories of difficulty and how to grade dynos, how training his legs made him a better all-around boulderer, the key to having the best trip of your life, changing his mindset and enjoying his climbing more than ever, and much more!
Check out The Nugget on YouTube:
youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbing
The Nugget is brought to you by BetterHelp!
betterhelp.com/NUGGET
Use this link for 10% off your first month!
Check out Wonderful Pistachios!
WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!
Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!
rhinoskinsolutions.com
Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!
And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!
Check out PhysiVantage!
physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)
Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!
Check out Rumpl!
rumpl.com/nugget
Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!
We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:
- Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas
Support on Patreon:
patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/mattias-braach-maksvytis
Nuggets:
0:05:26 – Exhales and accents
0:08:02 – How Mattias and I first met outside a bathroom in Hueco
0:11:26 – Becoming “the Dyno guy” in Rocklands, and his dyno resume
0:18:16 – His first hard dynos, and early trips to Font
0:21:06 – Hotspots for dynos around the world, and the new 8C/V15 dyno in Spain
0:23:57 – Trying an obscure dyno in Bishop, and beta mining
0:25:36 – ‘The End’ 8A in Rocklands, and what makes a good dyno
0:28:08 – Dyno FAs in Rocklands, and dynos that are ahead of their time
0:32:12 – ‘Industry of Cool’ 8A+, getting better at coordination dynos, which types of dynos hold their grades
0:35:15 – How to grade a dyno, and categories of difficulty
0:41:01 – Mattias’ 8C dyno project, and having his best year of climbing ever
0:43:01 – Changing his mindset, and becoming more playful
0:51:58 – Needing reference points to determine grades
0:53:45 – Training for his 5-year dyno project
1:00:10 – Dyno technique, and breaking down the move
1:04:19 – Right-handed 8A dynos in Rocklands, and the morpho nature of dynos
1:08:36 – Nobody trains legs, how much Mattias weighs, and how increasing his leg strength helped his overall climbing
1:11:11 – Getting hit by a van, and how rehab made him stronger
1:13:36 – Why he was so psyched to send ‘Caroline’ 7C+
1:16:16 – Other trip highlights, and why lumbrical injuries have become more common
1:23:55 – Being a sub-max comfortable guy, and not needing to do projects right now
1:27:15 – Enjoying the chossy lowball, and letting go of pressure to send the mega
1:32:43 – Coercing Mattias to try ‘Black Shadow’ on his last day, and his level of fatigue at the end of the trip
1:36:41 – Why the Basecamp boulder took so long to get developed
1:37:43 – Spraying the tick list
1:42:45 – The key to having the best trip of your life
1:43:49 – Aligning your inspiration with your ability
1:46:27 – Is it possible to climb near your potential after 2 months in Rocklands?
1:49:45 – Starting his business ClimberCare
1:54:47 – Studying to become a doctor of PhysioTherapy, and his evolution as a climber
1:57:46 – Wobblers
2:03:34 – Ethan’s punt on ‘Rodan’ 33/8c/5.14b in Waterval Boven
2:07:00 – Self-deprecation and kindness
2:10:02 – Drawing inspiration from the mutants
2:11:21 – V14 goals
2:15:50 – Better yeet your meaties
