Our current understanding of umami as a taste was part of a larger campaign to change the conversation about m s g. A lot of what we know about sensory science has its root in the modern industrial food system. Our names, our language do, in a way, forge our reality. Whether we call it umami or not has real effects in the world. The popularity of japanese quisine exploded at the same time that food science and molecular astronomy took hold of the culinary imagination.

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