
Yvon Chouinard
The Surfer’s Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick
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Surfer and Climber - Surfer's, We Found Something We Love
"There are a lot of people who don't know what they love," he says. "I wanted to learn to control my breath so I could go down for three minutes." The first guys to surf Y.A.M.A. didn't know if they could be held down until they died, and that was it. It's very much like climbing El Cap in the '50s when there were no rescue groups'
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