When you're on a wave, when you're within this activity, you are locked in to that micro second of a moment the entire way. And i think that that absolute focus and presence, at least in my life and a lot of other people i know, is really lacking. You know, we're not going out and hunting for our food now, whre we have to be locked in at that moment when it's the right time. At least a lot of people aren't hunting their food. But i think, h this is something that allowed humans to evolve, that is, to have pure and utter focus on a moment.
James Nestor has written for Outside, Scientific American, The Atlantic, Dwell, The New York Times, and more. His book Deep: Freediving, Renegade Science, and What the Ocean Tells Us About Ourselves was a finalist for the 2015 PEN/ESPN Award For Literary Sports Writing, an Amazon Best Science Book of 2014, and more. Nestor has appeared on dozens of national television shows, including ABC's Nightline and CBS Morning News, and on NPR. He lives and breathes, surfs and writes in San Francisco. Nestor's new book, Breath: The New Science of a Lost Art (https://amzn.to/3ekUIJS) is a myth-busting and paradigm-shifting look at how we breathe, what it does to us and how to harness breathing to transform our health and lives.
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