When you're on a wave, when you're within this activity, you are locked in to that micro second of a moment the entire way. And i think that that absolute focus and presence, at least in my life and a lot of other people i know, is really lacking. You know, we're not going out and hunting for our food now, whre we have to be locked in at that moment when it's the right time. At least a lot of people aren't hunting their food. But i think, h this is something that allowed humans to evolve, that is, to have pure and utter focus on a moment.

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