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13min chapter
Kai Lenny: The World's Most Versatile Surfer On Adventure, Risk, & Turning Fear Into Fuel
The Rich Roll Podcast
Riding the Giants: Excitement and Challenges
In this chapter, the hosts discuss the excitement and challenges of riding big waves, such as Mavericks, Jaws, and Nazare. They explore the sensory overload and fear that comes with riding 70-80 foot waves, as well as the technique of going limp to reduce the risk of injury during wipeouts. They also touch on the speeds reached at Nazare and the unique training required for high-speed rides.
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