
Yvon Chouinard
The Surfer’s Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick
00:00
I've Lost a Friend Spearfishing
"I've had accidents everywhere which way. I've split my scalp, you know, riding razors at the ranch," he says. "My son paddles over and he sees all that blood and he's thinking, oh my God." You mentioned Zen more than once in your book. Did you study Zen? Yeah. It's the idea of going towards more and more simple rather than more and more complex. And if you could work towards controlling that, that's what Zen is.
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