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The Pros and Cons of Power Training
If you're able to develop a degree of power or focus on power over the strength element you may not actually need as much strength as you need. There's also a fairly strong degree of mental control or mental agility involved with power training and it's something which is a lifelong skill. If I watch climbers who have had 5 to 10 years worth of consistent power training they've done they are a very very different type of climber versus the one who's spent 10 years strength training," he said. "You just don't need to be that strong to do those moves even if it's just to the aspect of coordination"