
Yvon Chouinard
The Surfer’s Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick
00:00
Climbing and Surfing - What Was the Draw?
I was out to prove myself. It was an internal thing that, you know, my old man was an alcoholic and we had screwed up family life in a lot of cases. I've been surfing since the mid 50s. Made my first surfboard out of Balsa. Then I ended up trading it for a Model A Ford engine for my Model A. And then I went from there to whitewater kayaking all over the world. The last 20% to world class is not worth doing for me. So I prefer one Campbell brother or Jacob's bonzer.
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