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The Importance of Finger Strength in Climbing
Having strong ankles might help you for very particular types of climbs, but having strong fingers helps you for every type of climb. I'd much rather lie back the entire op-wit if I could. That's a better way to climb the op-wit than is fist stacks and stepping your knees up inside the crack. It seems so scary to like go out to the outside when you could just squeeze up a 5'6th slot in the middle.