Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Barbarian Days is a memoir that delves into William Finnegan's life-long passion for surfing.

The book takes readers through his childhood in California and Hawaii, his teenage years marked by adventurous travels and rebellious behavior, and his later years as a war reporter.

Finnegan shares stories of his friendships, his encounters with various cultures, and the intricacies of famous waves he has surfed.

The memoir also touches on themes of love, responsibility, politics, and individuality, offering a deep exploration of the surfing culture and its impact on his life.