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China’s Quest for Global Influence

Intelligence Squared

The Controversy Over Xinjiang Cotton and Global Supply Chains

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The cotton industry in Xinjiang, China is known for forced labor and is linked to China's genocidal campaign against Uyghur families and identity. Despite this knowledge, Western companies continued to use Xinjiang cotton until the US government imposed import prohibitions. When H&M announced they would no longer use Xinjiang cotton, they faced a strong consumer boycott in China, supported by the state. Companies like H&M are now caught between societal pressure to uphold human rights and legal obligations in Western countries, and the risk of facing backlash in China for not using Xinjiang cotton.

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