American Alpine Club Podcast

The AAC is super excited to be co-hosting a brand new climbing festival this summer that centers BIPOC, LGBTQ+ and adaptive climbers in Yosemite Valley, called United in Yosemite. In this episode, we sat down with Genevive Walker and Thomas Bukowski, who are each deeply embedded in the climbing world, helping create more inclusive climbing experiences, and are guides who will be running clinics at United in Yosemite. Our conversation covers what climbing means to them, the obstacles they face as guides, why United in Yosemite matters, and the magic these kinds of events can generate. Listen in to get a sneak peek of what to expect from the event and get a glimpse behind the scenes of the guiding world. Find out more about United in Yosemite: https://yosemite.org/projects/united-in-yosemite-2023/

In April of 2020, Anna lost her friend in an avalanche while the two were splitboarding Mt. Taylor. In the wake of the accident, Anna utilized the AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund to find accessible mental health care and connect with others who were grappling with similar trauma from accidents in the mountains. In this episode, we sat down with Anna to have a profoundly raw and elegant conversation about her experience of the accident, how the trauma of the avalanche changed her relationship to backcountry snowboarding and skiing culture, reflections on the toxic narratives of shame and blame that often still persist around outdoor tragedies, and her personal journey as she learns (and continues learning) to navigate her post-avalanche world. Learn more about the Climbing Grief Fund, and support this work: https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund

In 1963, Jim Whittaker stood on top of the highest mountain in the world, becoming the first American to summit Everest. Since then, he has brought the company REI to international prominence, and seen climbing change dramatically—including having his son Leif Whittaker call him from the top of Everest, a possibility Whittaker had never dreamed of. In this episode, Whittaker reminisces about wearing wet leather boots for 3 weeks on his expedition to Everest (and still keeping his toes), reflects on how ice axes could splinter in your hands back in the day, and how really, the best climbing tools are your own hands, feet, and brain. Dive into this episode to hear this climbing legend's insights into the way climbing history informs our present.

Majka Burhardt is a pro climber, a certified climbing guide, a conservation entrepreneur running an international organization, and a writer. She is also a mother to twins, and she’s still figuring it all out. She’s leaning into messy coherence, and learning how to be the best mom, climber, spouse, professional, and guide along the way. Her new book, "MORE: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood" is a compilation of in-the-moment journals and voice memos Majka recorded while she was pregnant and during the first five years of her children’s lives—recording the raw messiness of wanting to do it all, and even then asking for more…of live and of herself. Along the way, she takes an honest look at risk and motherhood, gender roles, navigating jealousy, her work, her marriage, climbing hard with the changes her body experienced, and giving her children her best and highest self. Majka’s book "More" identifies the ways that life seeps into our climbing and is intricately tied into it. We talk about all this and more in this episode. The book is on the March Must-Read List from Next Big Idea, and you definitely want to get your hands on a copy.

Connor Herson is a young crusher, having freed the Nose at the age of 15, climbed 50 5.14s by his 18th birthday, and recently sending one of the hardest gear routes in the world, "Empath", 5.14d in Tahoe CA. The AAC is recognizing his overwhelming success so early in his climbing career with the Robert Hicks Bates Award, our annual award for up-and-coming you crushers who show exceptional promise for their future climbing endeavors. He's joining the likes of Kai Lightner, Margo Hayes, Sasha DiGuilian, Alex Honnold, and Colin Haley, among many others. In this episode, we sat down with Connor to talk about how he sets climbing goals, which of the 5.14s meant the most to him, what inspired him to try "Empath" on gear after sending it on bolts, and more. *** Grab a ticket to the AAC Annual Benefit Gala and hear from our award winners, enjoy our keynotes Former Vice President Al Gore & the Full Circle Everest Team, and celebrate with climbing legends: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala

In the summer of 2022, Madaleine Sorkin freed the Dunn-Westbay Direct, the hardest route on the Diamond at 5.14-. She is the fifth person to send the route, and it is also the first female ascent of the climb. Because of how quickly she put down this proud alpine route, Madaleine has been nominated for the 2023 Climb of Year Award, the winner of which will be announced, alongside many other awards, at the AAC’s Annual Benefit Gala, which will be held in NY this year, from March 10th-11th. You can cast your vote and learn about the other nominees below. Beyond being a professional climber, Madeline is also a performance coach and founder of the Climbing Grief Fund. In this episode, we dive into Mad’s process for sending the Dunn-Westbay, focusing on place-based connections within climbing, processing the pressure of self-imposed goals, and the tactic of visualization. Cast your vote for the Climb of the Year Award: https://www.research.net/r/2023climbingawards-e Grab your tickets to the Annual Benefit Gala here: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala_tickets

(Rated R for cussing ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) We’re trying something different this episode. We’re getting chatty about your craziest climbing stories—submissions from listeners and online forums about the craziest days we’ve had in the mountains and at the crag. From yacking yaks to eerie alpine ghosts, falling over 100 ft and walking with only a few bruises, and dreams about mimosas with Alex Honnold, AAC staff members explore the absurd and ridiculous climbing shenanigans that you submitted to the podcast, and add a few of our own horror stories to boot. Make sure to hit that subscribe button so that you never miss an episode, we promise we won’t be this silly every time! If you're listening to this and you're thinking....@#%* I need to make sure I have rescue insurance next time I'm out at the crag....check it out here: https://americanalpineclub.org/rescue

Legendary backcountry snowboarder Jeremy Jones describes being in the mountains as “The idiot’s guide to the present moment.” This wisdom and so much more shines through in this interview with Jeremy about his new book, “The Art of Shralpinism: Lessons from the Mountains.” Shralpinism, or the art of shredding and alpinism combined, is, according to Jeremy, a mix of the wisdom of reading avalanche danger, the science of changing conditions due to climate change, the art of evaluating risk and pushing past fear, and so much more. Jeremy shares stories from his many years of snowboarding in Alaska and other big mountain ranges, his tips on training, why he fell in love with going up as well as flowing down mountains, why most climbers should learn a little something about snow, and how to wrestle with the hard lessons the mountains teach you about danger, risk, and confidence. Listen in to this episode to get stoked and learn from the legendary big mountain shredder, originator of Jones Snowboards and Protect Our Winters, and devoted practitioner of the Church of the Seven-day Recreationalists. You can get a copy of “The Art of Shralpinism: Lessons from the Mountains” here: https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/the-art-of-shralpinism-lessons-from-the-mountains

According to Tyler Kempney, a competitor for the USA Ice Climbing team, ice climbing is the most human form of climbing. In this episode, we discuss this philosophy of ice climbing, training for competing, risk and decision-making in the mountains in winter, and lessons learned from close calls and technical ascents, like Tyler’s FA of "Conditional Love" on Long’s Peak. We dig into the ice climbing competitions coming up this winter, and why everyone should try ice climbing. And of course, we talk about Tyler’s favorite shape of ice cube. Find out how to watch the Ice Climbing World Cups and support the USA Ice Climbing team here: https://americanalpineclub.org/aac-member-federation-and-athletes

You’ve probably heard of the 10th Mountain Division, but did you know that climbing is just as or MORE important than skiing in shaping this division of expert mountaineering troops? In this episode, we sat down with Christian Beckwith, the creator of the 90 Pound Rucksack Podcast, and writer of a book by the same name, to talk about how climbers influenced the creation of the 10th Mountain Division, how climbing itself was critical to a battle in Italy that helped facilitate the end of the WWII, and the many gear developments that evolved from the 10th Mountain Division that shaped the climbing and mountaineering boom after the war. If you’re a history buff, you are going to especially love this episode. But even as someone who doesn’t have a particular connection to history, or especially military history, you can’t deny that tracing the impact of climbing on a world scale hits the spot for anyone who loves this sport. Listen to more history of the 10th Mountain Division and their impact on climbing history on The Ninety Pound Rucksack podcast: https://christianbeckwith.com