Good Beer Hunting

Welcome to a Fervent Few episode of the Good Beer hunting Podcast The Fervent Few is our subscriber community - made up of 100s of beer fans, professionals, and curious readers from around the world who directly support our editorial with their monthly contributions and help form a direct connection between our editorial and creative teams. We share stories, meet up for special events, and create fun gear for beer fans. You should join - visit goodbeerhunting.com/ferventfew to learn more and join the club. Today’s guest is John Gross haling from Austin, Texas, and he leads our Fervent few movie channel. His background as a critic and content director for Alamo Drafthouse Cinema makes him a helluva curator.

While Rock Leopard is relatively new to the scene, Ayeh is not. He’s worked in the alcohol industry since 2002, when on a trip to Sweden he discovered Kopparberg cider. Seeing its potential he persuaded the company to let him be the UK agent, launching a brand that went on national prominence. Sadly larger distributors saw its potential too, and without an exclusivity agreement Ayeh was forced aside. That was the first of several setbacks that have come to plague Ayeh, but never define him. After frustrating experiences at controversial start-ups like London Fields Brewery and Magic Spells, he finally struck out on his own, determined to have complete control over his career. He founded Rock Leopard back in 2017 but spent years learning to brew himself, refining his recipes and getting feedback from the industry. Unfortunately, many retailers were resistant to buying his first few commercial contract-brewed beers and Ayeh suspects it had little to do with the liquid. In this episode we talk through his early career before exploring the possible ageism and racism that made opening Rock Leopard so hard, and how cornering Paul Jones of Cloudwater Brew Co at a tap takeover changed everything for the brewery. We also look at how Ayeh’s experiences have led him to add a strong equal rights campaign element to his brand, something he admits to being much more passionate about than the excellent beers he now produces.

The way we find and tell stories of beer is changing, and in recent years, what was once relegated to magazines, websites, and podcasts is becoming more common in film. As craft beer’s trajectory has gone more mainstream, the awareness of the industry and its collection of people and stories has made a longer form, visual format another powerful path to explore the many ways a pint connects to different aspects of our lives and culture. In this episode, we’re exploring what that means, and two people from in front of and behind the camera. Tinu Diver has a background in writing, law, and documentary film, and her new project is “This Belongs To Us,” a documentary that follows the journey of Black women brewers in the U.S. South to explore how a craft and tradition that began in Africa became synonymous with white, male, blue-collar identity in the United States. You’ll also hear from Brianna Brake, who came to brewing with an education in computer science and law, and is now brewer and founder of North Carolina’s Spaceway Brewery and one of the featured women in Tinu’s film. This conversation covers similar themes explored in This Belongs To Us, which was recently featured at the Sundance Film Festival. Tinu and Bri share their experiences and perspective of being Black, entrepreneurial women, the ways they’ve come to view the U.S. beer industry, and the many kinds of stories that are weaved between beverage alcohol, history, culture, and more. You’ll hear about all kinds of historical, systemic, and current barriers faced by Black-owned breweries and Black people, like those challenge Bri faced when she tried to secure funding for her brewery. As production of This Belongs To Us enters its final act, there’s much Tinu and Bri are still wrestling with, and you’ll get a taste of what you can expect from the documentary in this conversation.

As a total percentage of the beverage alcohol industry, cider hasn’t really changed much in recent years. It amounts to about 1% and has been successfully static. I know a lack of growth doesn’t really sound like a success, and 1% doesn’t sound like a lot, but trust me on this one. Or, rather, trust Michelle McGrath. She’s the executive director of the American Cider Association and while it’s certainly her job to speak highly of the category and the success of her members, she’s bringing the data to back it up in this conversation about a category that often gets overlooked in a country more interested in narratives of hard seltzers, ready-to-drink, canned cocktails, spirits, or Hazy IPAs. But the maturation of cider as a category and industry is fascinating, especially as a drink that’s holding its own as so many other options have entered the market. Again, that 1% doesn’t sound thrilling, but wait until we put it in context of how hard things are for beer right now. Aside from the story of cider as a pure agricultural product, there’s also another area worth our attention, and that’s the outsized role that small cider producers are playing. The largest, national brands are lagging, and these small and independent businesses have picked up the slack—which might sound familiar to the stories of the beer world we hear so often. 1% is a small number, but it feels a bit bigger when you learn about how it’s maintained. When Michelle and I recently spoke, she just finished hosting the industry’s annual conference, CiderCon, so a lot of these things were fresh on our minds, and her’s was full of stories to give context to a category that may be just 1%, but according to Nielsen, has grown 10 times its size over the last decade.

Every brewery has a story, and along with the beer they brew, their narrative is what helps to set them apart. A great story can captivate and connect with consumers, and help build brand loyalty—something any business owner would love to have. And when a couple opens a brewery together, there’s a good chance their love story will become a foundational part of the business’s identity. That was certainly true for Sara and Sam Kazmer, owners of Elsewhere Brewing Co. in Atlanta’s Grant Park neighborhood. Their incredible, Lifetime-esque love story starts across the world, in a bar in Italy. Before they started out on their brewery venture, Sara suggested the couple travel the world, collecting experiences and knowledge that would later build out the story of Elsewhere, and influence their beer program, food menu, and the vibe of their brewery. In our conversation, we’ll talk about how intentional Sara was with creating the story of Elsewhere. Sara shares how she wanted Elsewhere to stray away from the traditional industrial feel of other breweries to create a space that felt inviting to women and men alike. We’ll discuss the amount of detail that went into designing Elsewhere, from the handmade tiling to the plants decorating the space. We’ll also cover the difficulties of opening and operating a brewery in the middle of a pandemic, how Sara’s experience working in taprooms helped prepare her for it, and insights into the craft beer scene in Atlanta. Keep an ear out, too, as Sara shares her plans for the brewery’s future post pandemic.  

Beer history has blossomed in recent years, as a new generation of researchers and writers have uncovered fascinating stories from the murky early days of brewing. Some of those discoveries have taken us to exotic locales, while others have illuminated overlooked stories right in our own backyards. And beer history is not just a field for enthusiastic amateurs. Academics and other professionals have been been digging through the archives to tell hitherto unknown tales from the world of beer and brewing. In this episode, I talk to Jennifer Jordan, professor of sociology at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee, and the author of a recent piece on the historic hop industry in Wisconsin that ran in our “From Barons to Barrels” series. We discuss her research into hop farming in Wisconsin, as well as some the characters who helped create the industry, like Jesse Cottington, originally born in England, who went on to become the leading man of the profitable hop business in Wisconsin’s Sauk County in the 1860s. Professor Jordan’s research has also identified less prominent characters, like Ella Seymour, a young woman who recorded her observations about hop picking and other chores in a diary at the time. If that sounds ephemeral, it is: by the 1880s, the once-massive Wisconsin hop trade disappeared completely. But as we discover in this episode, the evidence for it — in terms of archival evidence, the changed landscape, and even the plants themselves — still exist today… if you know where to look.

Have you heard the phrase “stick to beer”? It’s a version of an oft-cited phrase that people tell each other when one is veering away from their subject expertise. If you brew beer or write about the industry, you don’t need to share insight about other areas of life … let someone else who’s an expert do that. Stick to beer. In this episode, we aren’t venturing far away from beer, but Ben Self’s background lends itself to it. He’s our guest as co-founder of Kentucky’s West Sixth Brewing, but what came before and even recent years is of interest, too. Ben recently completed a run as chairman of the Kentucky Democratic Party and began a political career years ago by co-founding a progressive tech firm that led him to work with Howard Dean and the Democratic National Committee. This is relevant because while we don’t wade into hot button issues of politics, we do talk about what it means to win and lose and fight an uphill battle to turn a very red state blue. It may not be obvious right away, but you’ll hear me ask about how running a business can be similar when you’re trying to build trust with people you don’t know and convert customers to your brand in the same way a politician may want to find another vote. So trust me when I say we do “stick to beer,” but there’s a host of other things that have influenced Ben’s worldview, and that overlap can be fascinating.

Lately, the world has felt joyless. Even the weekends, which once offered a reprieve from the obligation of work, feel bland and gray when you’re stuck at home all the time. Saturday gives way to Sunday, and time melts into hours of couch-sitting, Instagram-scrolling, beer-drinking, and the occasional debate on what to eat for lunch. I long for a trip away from the mundane cycle my life has become. Against this backdrop, reading Beth Demmon’s latest piece on Good Beer Hunting, “Riding the Party Wave — Pizza Port Brewing Company’s Swami’s IPA,” felt like the rare vacation from day-to-day life. It invites the reader to the sunny shores of San Diego, where Beth poses—and then answers—the question: What is the most San Diego beer? In the article, she makes a compelling case for Swami’s, a West Coast IPA created by Pizza Port Brewing Company in 1992. Through interviews with legends in the California craft beer scene, Beth shows us how the legacy of Swami’s IPA still influences the beers we drink today—even if we’ve never personally traveled to San Diego. The article feels light and refreshing, offering a break from the heaviness of this moment in time. In our conversation, Beth and I talk about why she posed this question in the first place, how she settled on Swami’s as the beer that best encompasses San Diego, and why it’s not Stone IPA. Throughout this interview, you’ll hear Beth express her love for San Diego—her adopted home—and her joy as she looks back on the many memories she’s had at Pizza Port Brewing Company over the years.

Women currently make up less than a quarter of all craft brewery owners in the United States, according to the Brewers Association’s survey on demographics within the industry. While conversations around the importance of diversity, inclusion, and equity continue to spark important change within beer, sometimes it can feel like it’s just that—talk. But pioneers within the industry who talk the talk and walk the walk do exist, and in San Diego, the women behind Mujeres Brew House are two of those trailblazers. Carmen Favela and Esthela Davila launched Mujeres Brew Club in 2019 in an effort to empower women through beer education. Staggered by the immediate and overwhelming level of interest and participation in the events, these two knew they had stumbled on a large, underserved audience when monthly meetings regularly reached capacity. But when COVID-19 hit, their ability to provide that in-person community was challenged. When the pair had the unexpected opportunity to acquire a brewhouse of their own in San Diego’s largely Latinx Barrio Logan neighborhood, they jumped at the chance, thanks to the financial (and emotional) support of Carmen’s husband and business partner, David Favela of Border X Brewing. Even with COVID-related delays and restrictions still in place, the accelerated timeline for Mujeres Brew House was largely due to the tight-knit community of women in the group, who eagerly volunteered to sweep, dust, paint, and pitch in in any way they could to make their new home as welcoming as possible. In our conversation, Esthela and Carmen walk me through the group’s origin, their trajectory and mission, and the importance of being a part of the Barrio Logan community (as well as the wider craft beer community). They also address how it feels to be recognized by outlets like Good Beer Hunting’s Signifiers and Imbibe’s 75, and who they look to for inspiration, even as they provide inspiration to so many others. Mujeres Brew House is women-led and women-centric, yes. But their doors are open to anyone willing to come, listen, learn, and drink some great beer.

We are well beyond the days of “Dry January,” but the conversation around the success and long term impact of non-alcoholic beer continues. The month long effort at the start of the year is meant to give people a break from alcohol intake, and non-alcoholic substitutes often play a big role. But what Kate Bernot and I have come to recognize in the past several months is that the narrative of booze-free beer is even bigger. And that’s what we’re talking about in this episode as part of the conversations and insights we’ve been sharing as part of Good Beer Hunting’s Sightlines Premium newsletter and expert community. Sightlines Premium is an extension of our newsy Sightlines coverage, anchored by Kate and myself, with the goal of combining objective data and real-world anecdotes to help industry pros make informed decisions about managing a portfolio, how and where they should focus their access to market, and more. So while Sightlines Premium runs the gamut of topics, Kate and I are laser-focused in this conversation, where we share findings from our own reporting about the non-alcoholic beer segment, and what we think it means for the industry moving forward. For example, our Sightlines Premium coverage of non-alc beer used data to explain its boom in 2020, and insight from experts like economist Lester Jones to give a full understanding of the category’s place and rise of the last couple years. If you’re leading a company in the beer or alcohol space, Sightlines Premium is for you. And this will give you a sense of the kind of direct advice and consultation we offer in our weekly newsletter and online community. For more information, visit goodbeerhunting.com/sightlines-premium.